Ciavaldini and Pearson Go Multipitch in Sardiniaby Jack Geldard and James Pearson Apr/2012
This news story has been read 3,578 times
The couple both made free ascents of the two routes, each in a single day. Mezzogiorno di Fuoco was flashed by James, with Caroline needing just a few attempts at the harder pitches. James also came close to onsighting Amico Fragile, succeeding on the 50m 8b pitch only to slip off a dirty 7b higher on the wall.
James explained the nature of their trip:
"The aim of the trip is to explore the difference of ethics between equipping a route from the ground-up or from rappel, and to see how this decision affects future climbers experience."
Mezzogiorno di Fuoco was equipped in 2006 by Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Roberto Vigiani. The first free ascent was made by Rolando Larcher in 2007. The route is very sustained (7a, 8b, 6c, 8a+, 7c+ 7c, 7a) and exposed (large runouts, up to 10m), and has stunning climbing in a spectacular position.
Amico Fragile was first climbed in 2006 by Marco Vago and Simone Pedeferri, after earlier attempts in 2005 from Fabrizio Fratagnoli and Mateo Della Bordella. The main pitch is a stunning 50m 8b that tackles a drastically steep and sustained collonet, and the first two pitches should not be underestimated, with long run-outs on delicate rock.