Swiss Font 8C for Dave MacLeod

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor May/2012
This news story has been read 5,740 times

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+Dave MacLeod on Ben Nevis, where he famously completed the hardest traditional rock climb in the world, the ungraded Echo Wall., 193 kb
Dave MacLeod on Ben Nevis, where he famously completed the hardest traditional rock climb in the world, the ungraded Echo Wall.
© Andrew Smith, Jul 2011
Scottish trad, sport and winter climber Dave MacLeod has just climbed the Daniel Woods Font 8C Mystic Stylez in Magic Wood, Switzerland.

This ascent follows on from his recent ascents of other hard Swiss boulder problems; Conquistador Direct 8B/+, and New Base Line 8B+.

  • Dave has written his ascent up on his blog: Dave's Blog

Dave, who was struggling in the heat as temperatures rocketed, commented on his blog:

"After I did New Base Line nearly two weeks ago I wandered down to Muttertag (8a) to try that and look at Daniel Woods 8C sit start, Mystic Stylez. With only three moves into the stand start, itself a one hard move 8A, It must have some pretty bad holds? The holds did seem better than you would expect, but it's not until you try it you realise that they are at such unhelpful angles that moving between them is desperate. It's a running theme with the steeper problems on Swiss Gneiss. The holds are deceptively good, but the climbing very powerful. The only way to make powerful moves less powerful is to get more weight on your feet."


Dave MacLeod is sponsored by GORE-TEX , Scarpa , Black Diamond and Mountain Equipment

 


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