Björn Pohl - UKC, May 2012
© Moroni coll.
Gabriele Moroni, from Novara, Italy, has made the 3rd ascent, after Markus Bock and Adam Ondra, of The Essential, 9a, at the Luisenwand in Frankenjura, Germany.
The route is not very steep, but on the other hand there aren't an awful lot of things to hold on to, and what's there isn't very good. In other words (Markus' to be precise), it's "technical, fingery and hard".
It was bolted way back in the 80s by Klaus Buechele, worked by Werner Thon in the 90s and freed by Bock in 2008.
Apparently Gabri, who is no stranger to hard, fingery climbing, fell five times on the last move, before finally making the ascent.