NOW WITH VIDEO: Pembroke E9 for Charlie Woodburnby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Jul/2012
This news story has been read 13,045 times
"It starts off the same ledge system as Internationale and follows an obvious line of good holds up and left to some gear about 10 feet below the double overlaps. It then goes straight up this beautiful pink wall of perfect clean limestone via some powerful moves on undercuts and small crimps finishing with a wild heart in mouth dyno left to join the E5 'Deutchland nicht über alles', then finishes up that. The hard climbing a way out above the good gear is protected by a rattly peanut and HB3 which I was keen not to test."
Charlie estimates the route to be around E9 7a in difficulty or "an F8a+/8b pulse racer."
Charlie was attempting the line last year and came quite close to climbing it last November, but winter got in the way and it had to wait for the better summer weather (ahem!).
Charlie said: "With so much bad weather, I've trained quite a bit and this weekend is the first time I've actually been to Pembroke to try it this year. I wasn't expecting to do it first go back."
Congratulations Charlie on a top new route. Well done!
UPDATE: We have got a video!
"I've thrown together a magnificently amateurish video of Something's Burning. However, at least it's a record of the ascent."
VIDEO: Charlie Woodburn - Something's Burning
Dave MacLeod has made the third ascent of Dave Birkett's Return of the King E9 6c on Scafell in the Lake District. Adam... Read more
Four athletes from the GB Paraclimbing Team won medals in the IFSC World Paraclimbing Cup in Campitello di Fassa, Italy last... Read more
Canadian climber Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope made the first free one-push ascent of the Ewbank Route on the Totem Pole,... Read more
Charlie Woodburn recently headpointed Rare Lichen E9 6c at Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribbin Facet), Ogwen, North Wales. The bold... Read more
Lucy Creamer has made a headpoint ascent of Point Blank E8 6c at Stennis Ford. The route was first climbed by Dave... Read more