NOW WITH VIDEO: Pembroke E9 for Charlie Woodburn

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Jul/2012
This news story has been read 12,438 times
Charlie Woodburn has added an impressive new route to the steep gorge of Stennis Ford, Pembroke. His new line - Something's Burning - climbs the wall between the existing routes Internationale and Murcia Wall.

photo
Charlie Woodburn on the crux of Something's Burning
UKC News, Jul 2012
© Woodburn Collection (Still from video)

+Charlie Woodburn, 168 kbCharlie Woodburn
© Charlie Woodburn Collection
Charlie described the route:

"It starts off the same ledge system as Internationale and follows an obvious line of good holds up and left to some gear about 10 feet below the double overlaps. It then goes straight up this beautiful pink wall of perfect clean limestone via some powerful moves on undercuts and small crimps finishing with a wild heart in mouth dyno left to join the E5 'Deutchland nicht über alles', then finishes up that. The hard climbing a way out above the good gear is protected by a rattly peanut and HB3 which I was keen not to test." 

Charlie estimates the route to be around E9 7a in difficulty or "an F8a+/8b pulse racer."

Charlie was attempting the line last year and came quite close to climbing it last November, but winter got in the way and it had to wait for the better summer weather (ahem!).

Charlie said: "With so much bad weather, I've trained quite a bit and this weekend is the first time I've actually been to Pembroke to try it this year. I wasn't expecting to do it first go back."

Congratulations Charlie on a top new route. Well done!

UPDATE: We have got a video!

Charlie said:

"I've thrown together a magnificently amateurish video of Something's Burning. However, at least it's a record of the ascent."

VIDEO: Charlie Woodburn - Something's Burning


Charlie Woodburn is sponsored by Beta Climbing Designs , DMM and Sterling Rope

Forums ( Read more )
This has been read 12,438 times