5 double digits in a day by Guiguiby Björn Pohl - UKC Jul/2012
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French bouldering champ, Guillaume Glairon-Mondet, just came back from a quick trip to Magic Wood at Averstal, GraubŁnden, Switzerland. Fueled by last day of the trip power, he had an amazing day.
Guigui started the day by repeating The never ending story, a long 8B+ first done by Chris Sharma. After having fallen five times on the last move on the two previous days, he now did it on the first try of the day.
Feeling good now, he moved a few meters left on the same block, where he tried something completely different, the very short and powerful Massive attack, 8A+. Guigui had sat in the starting position a few times before, being unable to understand how to pull on, but this time he solved the riddle and managed to flash the problem.
Moving on to the riverside boulder, he flashed the long 8A Hydromancer before heading into the woods again and the darkness cave where he tried to flash Andy Gullsten's Dark sakai, 8B. He got very close, falling on the last move, but had to settle for a third go ascent.
Finally, not feeling content apparently, he headed down to finish off Electro boogie, 8A+, his nemesis from last year, and after finding the best beta, it, as everything else this day, went down in a few tries.
All in all, not a bad day.