UKC

Oliphant's dawn by Hukkataival + VIDEO [UPDATED)

© 27crags.com

In 2000, Fred Nicole put up Oliphant's dawn in Rocklands. Supposedly, he had difficulties making up his mind regarding the grade, saying it was somewhere between 8B and 8C. Now, after 12 years, Nalle Hukkataival has become the first to repeat it.

Adam Ondra, Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods and many more have tried this steep and rather peculiar three move power problem, which consists of small crimpers and a weird thumb catch, but, until now, no body has been close. This quote of Adam's is quite telling:

After one hour of sessioning I walked away having done none of the moves. And I heard that a bunch of people walked away with same result. All my esteem to you, Fred!

So, anyway, now, after having made quick work of things like A simple knowing, ~8B+, Golden shadow (see video below), ~8B+, and King of limbs, ~8B/+, Nalle managed to grab the 2nd ascent of this almost mythical problem.
I asked Nalle why thinks he was able to succeed where everyone else has failed. The answer was simple:

It's a pure power problem. 3 moves. Very straight forward which makes it possible to do it fast if you have the strength. It's very specific and tricky to grade do to its simple nature

He says he now has plenty of projects to try and that he already in the last days has put up a couple amazing new lines.

Here is the latest video from Clément Perotti. Enjoy!

Photo courtesy of 27crags


Nalle Hukkataival is sponsored by: Black Diamond and La Sportiva


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29 Jul, 2012
What's the handgun doing on the breakfast table? Does it have more relevance than the continuing meme of some bouldering film makers to try say "boulderers - a bit gansta, not just skinny middle class white boys doing their hobby"?
30 Jul, 2012
I'll add my name to the large number of people who think climbing should praise the beauty and wonder of nature, not violence. This is one bouldering video I'm simply refusing to watch
30 Jul, 2012
It's really just a panning shot over a gun, it's not really central to the film. But then again it stands out as just a bit weird, like why's that there then? Björn, was it the same film maker who got some criticism earlier this year of maybe last for using a photo of gang members (were they from Nigeria or somewhere?) taken by a photographer some people here knew? As I remember it the photo was a good one but didn't seem to have anything to do with the film.
30 Jul, 2012
That was the boys from 'Welcome to the Hood.' A film which reflects how naive Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, "Gu" and Anthony Gullsten are. It's about middle class white Americans wondering around the forests of Europe, flexing their egos...
30 Jul, 2012
Awesome effort from Nalle. Inspired!
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