Nina Caprez - Another Multipitch 8b+
by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Aug/2012
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Nina Caprez on the multipitch 8b+ of Carnet d'Adresse, on the Rocher du Midi, Chartreuse, France
UKC News, Aug 2012
© Sam Bie
Swiss climber Nina Caprez has, along with her partner Cedric Lachat, climbed the multipitch 8b+ Carnet d'Adresse, on the Rocher du Midi, Chartreuse, France.
This is an 8 pitch limestone sport route graded: 7a, 7b+, 7c, 8b+, 7a+, 8a/+, 7c+, 8a+/b.
Nina has previously climbed the very famous multipitch route of Silbergeier (a run-out 8b+) in the alpine limestone region of the Ratikon, Switzerland, as well as many other hard multipitch and sport routes.
Cedric made a successful ascent of Carnet d'Adresse first, and Nina followed suit needing a couple of days more work on the line.
Petzl have an article and interview detailing Nina's latest ascent on the Petzl Website.
Here's an extract:
Petzl : What motivated you to try this route?
Nina : This year I was looking for a project close to home. I often heard stories about the fabulous multi pitch climbs around Grenoble, and Rocher du Midi was always part of them. I can even see the cliff from the windows of my apartment in town. This route's profile was pretty much the same as Silbergeier (Ratikon) that Cedric and I did last year. "Carnet D'adresse" should be in my style. It's also very motivating for me to go out and try routes that have been seldom climbed so that I'm sure it's going to motivate some other parties to give it a go. Philippe Mussato is such an inspiring route setter, every single one of his climbs are unique jewels of high difficulty. Rare are the climbers that dare try them... With Cedric we also like to bring back good photos in order to also motivate other climbers.
Petzl : Can you describe the climbing style of the route and what you needed to succeed ?
Nina : The style of "Carnet d'Adresse" suits me very well: it's varied but the key pitches are on vertical to slightly overhanging slabs. The first three pitches are alpine style, with a little bit of loose rock, you have to climb softly like a cat. The real game starts on the 4th pitch, a , 25/30m section of five-star pure grey limestone, it's the hardest (8b+) and you can fail on every move on those tiny holds that demand perfect foot and body placement. Pitch 5 is a tough crack and slab rated 5.12. Then it's my favorite pitch a big 8a (i'd say 8a+ for me) that starts by a strange mantle on slopers, goes to a tough crux on tiny crimps that is slightly overhanging. Then we have a 30 m 7c+ pitch, definitely another five-star pitch with a key balance "no hands" move. Then you've reached the last pitch, a solid 8a+ starting with a sideways dyno followed by a series of tough bouldery moves. With CÚdric, we figured out a method relying on edging and finger crimping synchronized with perfect hip placements. I loved it.
For more on Nina Caprez:
Nina Caprez is sponsored by
Petzl, Arc'teryx, Five Ten, Beal
Thanks to Sam Bie for the photo.