Cadarese 8b Trad Crack For Hazel Findlayby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Aug/2012
This news story has been read 8,820 times
Check out this video of Italian climber Matteo Della Bordella climbing it after taking all the bolts out:
Hazel, a granite expert, has been ticking off classic routes close to Chamonix, but headed to Cadarese in Italy for a couple of days as a break from the mountains. She climbed The Doors after just a a few quick attempts, and suggested that the grade of 8b might be a little steep, but that the route was "One of the prettiest cracks I've ever seen, and close to 40m. 'Splitter' enough to look nice, but broken enough to have some really interesting movements."
Commenting about her ascent on her blog she said:
"So what of The Doors? I was told it was 8b, but I felt like I should try to onsight it anyway. It may not be the best idea if you want to be tactical in terms of saving energy etc, but I feel like trying these things makes you a much better climber over all, and you never know – you just might get lucky! I managed to get past the tricky start and the section of baggy fingers/ring locks, which I was quite pleased with. But then I miss-read the first proper crux and fell off in a sweaty heap..."
Interest in the Boardman Tasker (BT) Award for Mountain Literature remains as great as ever and this year’s competition has... Read more
Franco Cookson has re-climbed Black Knight on the popular Sphinx Buttress at Wainstones, North Yorkshire - the... Read more
Tom Randall has made the first ascent of an 8a+ crack line at Cadarese, Italy, which he has named La Cadenza di Amore. The... Read more
Despite never having to work and being paid to go on amazing holidays around the world with other equally deluded middle-class... Read more