Despite desperately hot conditions that have seen most European climbers eating ice cream or heading to high north facing crags, Hazel Findlay has visited the Italian granite venue of Cadarese and climbed The Doors, a 40m crack line that when bolted (the bolts have since been removed) was graded 8b.
Hazel Findlay granite climbing in the Mont Blanc Range
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor, Aug 2012
© Jack Geldard
Check out this video of Italian climber Matteo Della Bordella climbing it after taking all the bolts out:
Hazel, a granite expert, has been ticking off classic routes close to Chamonix, but headed to Cadarese in Italy for a couple of days as a break from the mountains. She climbed The Doors after just a a few quick attempts, and suggested that the grade of 8b might be a little steep, but that the route was "One of the prettiest cracks I've ever seen, and close to 40m. 'Splitter' enough to look nice, but broken enough to have some really interesting movements."
Commenting about her ascent on her blog she said:
"So what of The Doors? I was told it was 8b, but I felt like I should try to onsight it anyway. It may not be the best idea if you want to be tactical in terms of saving energy etc, but I feel like trying these things makes you a much better climber over all, and you never know – you just might get lucky! I managed to get past the tricky start and the section of baggy fingers/ring locks, which I was quite pleased with. But then I miss-read the first proper crux and fell off in a sweaty heap..."