McHaffie Repeats Long Hope Main Pitchby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Sep/2012
This news story has been read 10,487 times
The original route was first climbed over several days with substantial aid by Oliver Hill and Ed Drummond, and was subsequently climbed free by Dave Turnbull and John Arran with a slight variation, but the unfreed steep central hanging headwall was what attracted MacLeod for his first ascent, and it was this headwall that also attracted McHaffie.
James climbed the headwall pitch after abseiling in to check it out. He successfully climbed it on his third lead attempt, but success was almost much faster - his first effort on lead saw him at the final moves, but a foot slip sent him falling before he reached the belay.
James said the route was 'ace' and although he doesn't have the time to do the whole route this trip, he said he might return next spring to climb the whole line.
More details on this ascent to follow.
James has his own website AND BLOG!
The third round of the 2016 IFSC Lead World Cup circuit saw competitors congregate in Briançon, France at... Read more
Today the British Mountaineering Council has announced a change of name to 'Climb Britain', while its... Read more
James McHaffie has added to his impressive string of new ascents this year with a new route on the big, bold and adventurous area... Read more
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has free-climbed the Voie Petit 8b on the Grand Capucin on Mont Blanc du Tacul,... Read more
Tom Livingstone and Tony Stone have climbed Longhope Route (E7 6c) on St Johns Head, Hoy, established by Ed Drummond... Read more