McHaffie Repeats Long Hope Main Pitchby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Sep/2012
This news story has been read 10,303 times
The original route was first climbed over several days with substantial aid by Oliver Hill and Ed Drummond, and was subsequently climbed free by Dave Turnbull and John Arran with a slight variation, but the unfreed steep central hanging headwall was what attracted MacLeod for his first ascent, and it was this headwall that also attracted McHaffie.
James climbed the headwall pitch after abseiling in to check it out. He successfully climbed it on his third lead attempt, but success was almost much faster - his first effort on lead saw him at the final moves, but a foot slip sent him falling before he reached the belay.
James said the route was 'ace' and although he doesn't have the time to do the whole route this trip, he said he might return next spring to climb the whole line.
More details on this ascent to follow.
James has his own website AND BLOG!
Over the hill? The wrong side of 40? Too many birthdays? Age is often used as an excuse to slow down and pursue less adventurous... Read more
British climbers Matt Burdekin and Tom Ripley have made the first ascent of a new line on the East Face of Aguja Bifida Sur... Read more
Tim Emmett and Slovenian climber Klemen Premrl have established a remarkable new line at Helmcken Falls in Canada, which the pair... Read more
James McHaffie (the dark lord of British climbing) is always out there onsighting hard route after hard route. We know... Read more
Northern Ireland has been a hotspot for hard trad over the last few weeks, with the Fair Head meet attracting swathes... Read more
DMM have just tweeted that both James McHaffie and Ryan Pasquill have yesterday managed ground-up repeats of the famous John... Read more