8c by Doro Karalusby Björn Pohl - UKC Sep/2012
This news story has been read 4,466 times
Dorothea Karalus normally doesn't climb routes, but when she saw Headcrash, 8c, on the central pillar of Wasserstein, Frankenjura, she knew she had to try it.
To say, Doro is mostly a boulderer is an understatement. She is one of only a handful of women who have climbed 8B and has a whopping 34 problems given 8A or more to her name.
Since I had never tried such a difficult route, I could not assess whether there was any prospect of success. Thus, the 'strategy' was to continue trying as long as it's fun, without any expectations. At first the progress was quite slow; it took me several days to do the first crux move and to link the upper part. After a few days (I didn't count how many), I climbed through the crux for the first time from the start. On each of the following moves, I waited for my elbows to go into 'chicken wing-mode'...but surprisingly I didn't get pumped and climbed to the top!'
Dorothea Karalus is sponsored by Monkee clothing and Evolv