Adder crack, 5.13 R FA by Hazel Findlayby Björn Pohl - UKC Sep/2012
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Adder Crack, 5.13 R, Longhouse, Squamish
Björn Pohl - UKC, Sep 2012
© Hazel Findley coll.
Hazel Findlay, currently in Squamish on her way to Yosemite, has made the first ascent of Adder Crack, 5.13 R (~8a+) at Longhouse, Squamish, Canada.
You can read all about it on her blog, but here is the short version.
The thin crack, or seam really, was cleaned by Joshua Lavigne, who thought that it would be a 5.12 finger splitter. As it turned out, the crack was thinner than expected and even small fingers didn't fit, so he pulled his rope and handed the project over to Hazel.
Hazel describes the route as a five meter thin intro crux, which she solved by "...using laybacking and imaginary finger locks.">/i>, followed by an easier section and then a second crux leading to a 5.11ish finish.
To protect the start she had to apply British tactics, i.e. using two ropes and placing gear off route, as the moves were too hard to place the fiddly gear on lead.
About the name, Hazel says she "...thought the Adder Crack was good, because it's like a less cool, less bad-ass, thinner, slightly venomous, more British version of the Cobra Crack."