8B+ by Robinson and Sánchezby Björn Pohl - UKC Oct/2012
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This is certainly the season for the bouldering areas of the Alps with cutting edge problems being climbed almost every day.
Maybe, it's already over as I hear it's been snowing in the Averstal/Magic wood, but at Sundergrund in the Zillertal, the conditions were good enough to give Paul Robinson the opportunity to make the 3rd ascent, after Daniel Woods and Flo Schmalzl, of American gangster, 8B+.
Paul says he had an EPIC on it and just couldn't complete it. I should have done it a while ago, but I had a mental block on the top!. The top is, by the way, both difficult and scary, so having a mental block after having fallen there multiple times is not at all strange.
Meanwhile (sort of), Nacho Sánchez has been on a sort of road trip visiting some of Europe's better areas.
At Silvretta, he made relatively short work of Bernd Zangerl's Memento, 8B+, which he says is one of the best problems he has ever done, before getting super close on Anam cara, 8B+, and flashing british airways, 8A.
The plan was to stick around and get revenge on Anam cara, but then the weathered turned bad, so they headed south to Ticino instead.
At Cresciano, Nacho had a play on The story of two worlds, hard 8C, and got all the moves done in a session. Unfortunately it was way too warm and humid to make any serious attempts, so off to Varazze it was to try another 8C+, Christian Core's Gioia instead.
Nacho found the problem interesting and feels it deserves a few more trips there. Could be interesting!