Chris Sharma starts the autumn season with two ~9a'sby Björn Pohl - UKC Oct/2012
This news story has been read 10,660 times
Chris Sharma has started the autumn season in a very impressive way by climbing La Tierra Negra, 9a/9a,+ and La Nevera Severa, 8c+/9a.
Here is what he says about it:
So this route in Margalef "La Tierra Negra" is a line I bolted a couple of years ago just to the right of "Era Vella". It's super beautiful but since I always have a long line of projects I had never gotten around to sending it.
This season I decided to use it as a training route to get back in shape after the long hot summer. I figured "well, once I send this then I'll be ready to try something a bit harder, hehehe"
Also "La never Severa" is an incredible line that I bolted some years ago that Dani Andrada climbed the FA. It's dead vertical and it's like one big fat tufa that you have to blindly slap your way up on slopers. Super original!
So, now I'm just trying to step it up a bit more, I've got a couple of other routes in the works, a direct start to "La Tierra Negra" and a really crimpy line to the right of "La Dura Dura" [Chris' and Adam Ondra's super hard project at Oliana].
I think it's good to have short, medium and long term projects, things you can do in a few days, things that maybe take a few weeks and then ones that are more long term, at least that seems to be the best way for me to stay motivated and not lose psyche trying the same route over and over again. It's important to mix it up.Well, there you have it, and as Chris puts it It's hard to not be psyched when fall arrives here in Catalunya, surrounded by amazing projects and lots of friends!
Sounds like we're in for another interesting Catalunya season, so stay tuned!
This week's Friday Nighter is from . Here's what they say: "This harrowing expedition pushed a group of... Read more
Alex Megos has made the first repeat of Adam Ondra's ~60m monster, Thor's hammer, ~9a+, in the Flatanger cave in Norway.... Read more
This summer, I'm guessing 11 July, Roland Hemetzberger managed to make the first free ascent of Delirium, an 8c multi-pitch... Read more
In early March, Chris Sharma made what's probably his hardest first ascent to date, El bon combat at Cova de Ocell near... Read more
18 year old Anak Verhoeven from Belgium has made the 4th female ascent of Chris Sharma's Era Vella, 9a, at Margalef,... Read more