VIDEO & COMMENTS: Traversi repeats In Search of time lost, 8C

by Björn Pohl - UKC Oct/2012
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+Carlo Traversi on Remembrance of things past, 8B+, Magic Wood, 79 kb
Carlo Traversi on Remembrance of things past, 8B+, Magic Wood
UKC News, Oct 2012
© Mary Mecklenburg

After falling many times on the last move, Carlo Traversi has repeated Daniel Woods' In search of time lost, 8C, in the Darkness cave, Magic Wood, Switzerland.

To do In search of... you need to do an ~8A/+ start into Remembrance of things past, 8B+.

Carlo was really close to doing In search... on his first try, falling on the last move before the topout, but then he kept falling many times on that same move.

The last lock off is really long and the amount of moves leading up to it is surprisingly tiring, and the cave is always humid so the more moves you do, the more your fingers lose chalk and start sliding out of the holds.

So, how come he was able to do it then, even after so many tries. He must have been even more tired.

I came up with a method of leaving chalk on the last few holds that helped the friction despite feeling more tired it worked out.

Sometimes it's better to use brain, rather than muscle power. Not many people have power to waste on an 8C!

AS far as I can tell, that's the difference between 8B+ and 8C for me. You can't make mistakes on an 8C, and conditions mean everything.

Talking about grades, Carlo says that he is unsure about the 8C+ boulder grade, and that it, at this point in time, is very difficult to draw the line between 8C and 8C+.

That being said, I'm excited to check out Gioia. It comes down to style. I will say that if there is a problem that is a serious contender, it's Hypnotized Minds [8C, FA Daniel Woods] in RMNP. From my experience, that's the hardest boulder problem in the world.

It's underrated in terms of difficulty. Paul [Robinson], Dave [Graham] Matty [Hong] and myself have all put a decent amount of effort into it, and haven't gotten very far. [It has] long power moves on very small holds. extreme body tension as well.
I completed all the moves one day and then spent 7 days trying to repeat the individual moves again. Makes it hard to try and link...

After Magic Wood, Carlo will go bak to Heidelberg and try to repeat Mensch und Maschine, 8B/+, before meeting up with Paul Robinson and, if the weather permits, have a go at Klem Loskot's Bügeleisen, 8B+, at Maltatal, Austria, a problem which has only seen one repeat, by Markus Bock, since it was put up in 2001.

Here is a video of Carlo repeating Remembrance of things past, 8B+:

And here, for reference, is a video of Daniel Woods making the first ascent of Hypnotized minds, 8C.


Carlo Traversi is sponsored by: adidas, Five Ten and Revolution


Forums ( Read More... | 2 comments, 20 Oct 2012 )
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