A few days ago, Tomoko Ogawa became the first woman to climb a confirmed 8B+ boulder problem by repeating Dai Koyamada's Catharsis at Shiobara in Japan. The problem had previously only been repeated by a, to me, unknown Japanese climber and Daniel Woods who confirmed the grade.
I decided to make an interview with Tomoko, and with some help from Ikuko Serata, who is currently in Switzerland with Dai Koyamada (definitely more news to come there) it worked out, and here it is:
I understand you have been trying this problem for three years. How many days do you think you have had on it? How many tries?
I have spent about 30 or 40 days during these three years.
A few hundred attempts.
In the video, you look like you are in control the whole time. What made it possible to finally do it?
I thought I need more finger strength and reach. I did "finger pull ups" for a long time that I had seen Daniel Woods do in a DVD. It is like hanging on a campus board with open hand and close it to crimp and open and close over and over while you are hanging.
And I started to straighten up my body. Actually I was hunched. I thought because of my backside muscles got too big since I started climbing, I wanted keep my chest and body open to extending my reach. But it took a year to get better.
Because the first section of this problem involves several pockets and the last section is dynamic. In short it's very steep and super fingery. The crux of this problem is the 5th move with right three finger pocket and left shallow pocket. I thought I need more finger strength and reach to get 5th.
Also I always failed at the crux because my feet peeled off the far and heinous footholds. To be able to keep my feet on I have done a lot of "core training" for years. I was trained by a professional foot ball player and it worked very well.
I can see that you have been climbing all over the world. What's your favorite bouldering area?
Rocklands, I love it!
What style do you prefer?
Do you ever compete?
Yes, I took part in the World cup, but I was a loser in the World cup every time...
What are your plans for the future?
I just want to go to many aeras overseas. I also want to climb a slab project which is my weakness.
Thank you very much Tomoko!
Tomoko Ogawa is sponsored by: adidas and Mad Rock
Tonight's Friday video features 22 year-old, up-and-coming US trad climber Molly Mitchell on her new routes,... Read more
Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of Alasha, a Deep Water Solo (DWS) route which he says is of roughly the same... Read more
Ryuichi Murai has made the 5th ascent of Dai Koyamada's Hydrangea, ~8C, at Shiobara, Japan. 21 year old Ryuchi has... Read more
Sachi Amma, one of the very best lead competition climbers in the world, is a decent boulderer as well. Repeating Dai... Read more