Carlo Traversi on Remembrance of things past, 8B+, Magic Wood
UKC News, Oct 2012
© Mary Mecklenburg
Carlo Traversi has done it yet again. Repeated an 8C that is. This time Chris Sharma's Practice of the wild at Magic wood/Averstal, Switzerland.
This is a problem I have nice memories of myself as I spotted Chris on the first ascent, together with Ty Landman and Toni Lamprecht. I guess that was bordering on Gonzo journalism, so let's move on to hear what Carlo says about his experience instead.
It felt really easy today, despite the wet holds. I'm feeling sorta weightless at the moment. Hopefully that feeling sticks around!Upon arriving at the boulder today, I found that the whole bottom of the wall was soaking wet, but decided to try from three moves in. I ended up climbing it from there three times to the jug (which is basically like doing the boulder three times) and so I started attempting to dry the bottom of the wall.
I used a photo reflector to bounce light into the cave and then started the chalking/brushing process. After about an hour of this, I decided to give up and just try to climb it with wet hands. Two tries later and it was done.
Definitely one of my favorite boulder problems in the world. It's hard to find super overhanging lines with climbable sloping holds. Very unique, particularly with the double clutch dyno to the mailbox slot at the end. Standing on top of the boulder I could feel a huge weight come off my chest. I was relieved to finally finish a process that I started more than two years ago.
I'm not 100% sure, but I believe Carlo's is the first repeat using Chris' original "crazy dyno" beta.
Carlo also says he fell off the last move of Mystic Stylez, 8B+, probably 6 times today, so going to try and finish that up, and then I'm relocating to Val Bavona to search out some hard projects. Psyched to make my own contribution to the world class hard boulders in Swiss.
Well, I would say now is the time to do it!
Here's a video of Tyler Landman making the 2nd ascent of Practice of the wild
Carlo Traversi is sponsored by: adidas, Five Ten and Revolution