11 year old, Ashima Shirashi just keeps taking giant steps. Now she has repeated Joe Kinder's Southern smoke, 8c+, at the Bob marley crag, Red River Gorge.
After a 3rd go 8b/+ the first day and an 8b+ flash the second, it took a few days for the next ground breaking ascent. Ashima was working on Lucifer, 8c+, for a bit before deciding to go for Southern smoke instead.
The route adds a direct start into the crux of Ultra-perm, 8b, a few meters right of another 8c+, 50 words for pump, and Joe describes it as:...simple and purely stamina/resistance. There is one shake spot on some getto holds after you have climbed something in the 13d/14a [8b/+] range. After this the real crux comes that surely checks in around 13c/d [8a+/b] to the top.
Ashima is the youngest person ever to climb 8c+. Yes, younger even than Adam Ondra, who was 12 when he did Alien carnage at Castillon.
Deadpoint magazine has the full story and several more photos.
This year's British Lead and Speed Climbing Championships and a round of the Paraclimbing Cup took place at Awesome Walls,... Read more
15 year old Laura Rogora, from Rome, Italy, has repeated Red Bull, 8c, at Collepardo, needing only three tries, making it her... Read more
James McHaffie had a productive weekend in North Wales, establishing an Ogwen highball arête named Devil's... Read more
Ashima Shiraishi has repeated Dai Koyamada's Sleepy Rave, a link up of Sleepy Hollow, 8A+, Cave man, 7C, and Dead... Read more
Margo Hayes, 17, has repeated Jonathan Siegrist's Pure imagaination, 8c+, at the Red River Gorge's Chocolate factory,... Read more