Sur le fil, 8B+, by Dai Koyamadaby Björn Pohl - UKC Nov/2012
This news story has been read 5,264 times
Escaping the bad weather in Ticino, Dai Koyamada took the road a bit further up the road from Chironico to see what he could find on the other side of the Gotthardpass. The weather wasn't a whole lot better, but this didn't slow him down much.
Ikuko Serata was, as always, with him:
It has been bad weather in Chironico so we went to Wassen where some of Fred Nicole's lines are.
Today Dai did a good line of Fred's, 'Sur le fil' 8B+ (first go), and he did an open project and named it 'Sur Droite', 8B (first go).
It was raining and the lip was wet. It was very scary he said.
He also did 'Sur Gauche' 8A+.
The bloc is really beautiful and we liked the place very much! Dai really liked all lines and he says "Thank you Fred!".
As far as I know, this was only the third ascent (after Fred and Guntram Jörg) of Sur le fil, which Fred put up in November 2003.
As soon as the weather gets better, which should be soon, Dai will be back on his current project at Chironico which is to link the start of Der mit den Fels tanzt into Delusion of grandeur, a very hard and scary line.
This week's Friday Night Video is a humourous take on climbing partnerships. Does your belay buddy live up to stereotypical... Read more
In this podcast, I talk with American boulderer Jimmy Webb for an hour or so. The interview was made when we were in Helsinki for... Read more
Last year, Seb Bouin repeated Chilam Balam, ~9a+/b, in the Villanueva del Rosario cave in Andalusia. Now he has been back for... Read more
Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of Rokudou, ~8C, in the Kagura cave, Japan. Dai says he has added three hard... Read more
This brilliant video tells the story of Dai Koyamada's first ascent of s. Kawaki no Umi, ~8B+/C, at Minamata,... Read more