VIDEO: Another 8A for Mina but no Mandalaby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Nov/2012
This news story has been read 9,840 times
Commenting on the problem on her blog, Mina said:
"I was trying to finish off Gentleman's Project, a great line with a very shouldery crux followed by a deadpoint to a good hold. After writing my last blog I had a very frustrating day where I climbed through the crux first go and then fell at the lip when I got my hand position wrong, and not realising why, couldn't do the final move! So annoying! I then fell time after time on the crux until I was too tired to keep going. Disappointed to make it so close, but also encouraged that I could climb it, I took a rest day. Invigorated by a shower (and some bakery delights from the Food Ranch), two days later I returned and, despite some nerves, did it first go. I was so happy, this was my favourite climb in Joe's Valley and we left for Bishop that night."
(Watch the video of Mina on Gentleman's Project at the base of this page)
Interestingly, Mina headed to Bishop to try the world famous boulder problem The Mandala, first climbed by Chris Sharma.
Mina commented on her blog:
"I still wanted to check out the line that I have swooned over for years and at 7:30am I went to try the Mandala. A complete non-starter. Discussing the problem in Boulder with Alex Johnson, she had said to me: "If you can make the first big move you will do the problem". This now made perfect sense, the first move is massive. The problem was originally done a different way, a shorter but apparently harder move, before a crucial hold broke. This break lowered the grade but, as far as I can tell, increased the span required. I could just reach between the holds but the power required to make the move is something I doubt I will ever possess. So, within 15 minutes, a lifelong ambition had been crossed off my mental list; I will admit I was pretty disappointed..."
Mina has now continued her road trip and headed to Yosemite Valley, California.
As reported yesterday, James McHaffie and Ryan Pasquill onsighted John Dunne's The Great Escape E8 (6b, 6c, 6b) at Cioch... Read more
Last year's Bronze medalist at the Junior Lead World championships, Julia Chanourdie, has repeated Alberto Gnerro's L'avaro, 8c+,... Read more
Despite never having to work and being paid to go on amazing holidays around the world with other equally deluded middle-class... Read more
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has redpointed Bat Route 8c at Malham Cove, making its first female ascent. First climbed by... Read more