The mountain, Shiva, is 6,142m and the pair topped out via the previously unclimbed northeast ridge, reaching the summit on their seventh day away from basecamp.

Russian climber Andrey Muryshev, who gave the pair information on the area, told them in an email: "Frankly I cannot imagine how you will do it. Do you mean the north west buttress? It is c700m of climbing after the col and it is the north west side in October – all the rock will be frozen. From the other hand, the ice will be scarce as the buttress is very steep. So it will be very hard dry tooling and very hard protection... I am not even sure that anybody has climbed anything of the kind at this altitude ever in history. Still your idea inspires me."

There is more information on the route on the BMC Website

PHOTOS: Shiva

Mick Fowler is sponsored by Berghaus.