Fabian Buhl climbs American gangster, 8B+by Björn Pohl - UKC Nov/2012
This news story has been read 4,596 times
Fabian Buhl from southern Germany, has made the 4th ascent of Daniel Woods' American gangster, 8B+, at Sundergrund in the Zillertal, Austria.
Daniel made the first ascent back in November of 2009, but it took two and a half years until Flo Schmalzl managed to repeat it. Then Paul Robinson made the third ascent earlier this autumn.
Daniel described it to me like this: ...the combination is an 8A+ intro boulder of 3 moves to a 2 move 8A+. The upper part consists of a huge deadpoint with the left hand to a small slopey crimper, then a one arm lock off to the slopey lip. All on a steep overhanging wall.
All the repeaters used different beta however. We all went up with the right hand to the small crimp, which makes it a different beta to daniels, that makes the move up more secure, but the final move to the lip harder!
Fabian, who isn't very tall, found the first part ...quite a challenge, cause I was very extended in the first part which is th same as Camorra 8A+, but than this small stature became an advantage on the second part and ...I could climb the upper part quite controlled
He also says it's a really nice boulder and one of the best lines he has ever climbed.
This week's Friday Nighter is from . Here's what they say: "This harrowing expedition pushed a group of... Read more
Late in the season, when temperature and humidity perhaps shouldn't really allow it, Dave Graham has made the second... Read more
Hot on Alex Megos' heels, Jakob Schubert has made the 3rd ascent of Adam Ondra's Thor's hammer, 9a+, in the Flatanger... Read more
Fabian Buhl is the promising alpine skier, who turned boulderer, then trad climber and now multi pitch master. Always on a world... Read more
Fabian Buhl has made the second ascent of Alex Luger's PsychoGramm, ~8b+ trad, on the Bürser Platte at Vorarlberg,... Read more