Fabian Buhl climbs American gangster, 8B+by Björn Pohl - UKC Nov/2012
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Fabian Buhl from southern Germany, has made the 4th ascent of Daniel Woods' American gangster, 8B+, at Sundergrund in the Zillertal, Austria.
Daniel made the first ascent back in November of 2009, but it took two and a half years until Flo Schmalzl managed to repeat it. Then Paul Robinson made the third ascent earlier this autumn.
Daniel described it to me like this: ...the combination is an 8A+ intro boulder of 3 moves to a 2 move 8A+. The upper part consists of a huge deadpoint with the left hand to a small slopey crimper, then a one arm lock off to the slopey lip. All on a steep overhanging wall.
All the repeaters used different beta however. We all went up with the right hand to the small crimp, which makes it a different beta to daniels, that makes the move up more secure, but the final move to the lip harder!
Fabian, who isn't very tall, found the first part ...quite a challenge, cause I was very extended in the first part which is th same as Camorra 8A+, but than this small stature became an advantage on the second part and ...I could climb the upper part quite controlled
He also says it's a really nice boulder and one of the best lines he has ever climbed.