Grit Action: New E8 7a for Jordan Buys and More
by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Nov/2012
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On Friday 23rd of November Jordan Buys added No Surrender, a new E8 7a to the quarried grit venue of Baildon Bank, Yorkshire.
Jordan commented about the day:
"Friday was mint conditions despite the previous days flooding... ...No Surrender goes at E8 7a and has Font 7C/+ climbing on it well above the gear."
Jordan Buys on the first acsent of No Surrender, Baildon BankUKC News, Nov 2012© Dave Sutcliffe
Here's the video of his ascent:
For more about Jordan have a look at this interview and video from back in August.
In other Grit new-route news, wide boy Pete Whittaker has added a line to Hall Moor Quarry, Derbyshire.
Pete has called his route De Nada and offered a grade of around E7 6c.
"It takes the arete to the right of Speak the Truth. It's quite short, but really bouldery to get off the starting ledge, to a bolder sort of finish. I ended up doing it twice in the end, once with a pad, once without. The pad makes the start move off the ledge way easier because it lifts you higher into the starting undercuts."
Good effort guys, and lets hope the rain gives way to a great grit season this winter.
Jordan is sponsored by
Moon Climbing ,
Wild Country ,
Pete Whittaker is sponsored by
Wild Country ,
Sterling Rope ,
Five Ten ,
Thanks go to Dave Sutcliffe for the picture.
| Forums ( Read More... | 39 comments, 29 Nov 2012 )|
|Be interested to see a pic of Pete's new route, Johnny and I toproped it back around '99 or so. Struggling to visualise how it relates to The Illustrious Scut, which is also described as climbing the arete right of...|
Adam Long - 29 Nov 2012
Pretty standard use of mats these days on hard routes if you are going to hit a ledge (or a spike in this case). Maybe you neeed to get out more ;-) Anyone else with any updates of access problems for Hall Moor or how...
Offwidth - 29 Nov 2012
I am new to UKC I saw this post randomly, awesome just well done to Jordan, that looks impressive. As for the rest of the comments, honestly I don't know where some of the commenters come from or what motivates their...
romatou18 - 28 Nov 2012
|Great looking moves by JB, just a shame there wasn't better footage of the ascent. Looked from the camera angle like the 'planted' mat was sitting a bit high in the event of a fall, but I'm sure it was checked...|
Fraser - 28 Nov 2012
good effort Jordan... pity about the usual over analysis and critism from some people on here.. really we should just feel inspired by these achievements and get out there and do the do too .. even if it is at a much...
pork pie girl - 28 Nov 2012
Go and repeat it and let us know what you think? E8 is just what it says on the tin, a guide! Made a bit safer by using a pad. Use ten it might become a boulder problem. Use none and it might be E9. Thats the beauty of...
Adam Lincoln - 27 Nov 2012
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