Paddy Cave Climbs '1984' (IX,9) Lake District

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Dec/2012
This news story has been read 7,273 times

Paddy Cave has made the first winter ascent of '1984' at Flat Crags, Langdale, Lake District.

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+Looking up at the upper section of Flat Crags before the winter ascent of 1984. The route takes the corner on the right., 180 kb
Looking up at the upper section of Flat Crags before the winter ascent of 1984. The route takes the corner on the right.
UKC News, Dec 2012
© Paddy Cave Collection

On a previous attempt Paddy had to retreat after he dropped a tool whilst leading. Paddy blogged earlier in the month:

"...with all the hard climbing more or less completed I was placing some gear and heard the clanking of a tool disappearing down the crag, I'd knock my axe out of the hook I'd left it in... with no option for getting stable to get it sent back up I was forced to accept failure and lower off..."

+The line of 1984, 79 kb
The line of 1984
UKC News, Dec 2012
© Paddy Cave Collection
+Paddy in the upper corner section, after the roof., 47 kb
Paddy in the upper corner section, after the roof.
UKC News, Dec 2012
© Paddy Cave Collection

However this Saturday saw no mishaps and Paddy completed the climb. He reported on his blog:

"...arriving at the crag it was obvious that the crag was plastered but we couldn't see the overhanging wall start without detouring to the crag, so going up around the corner we saw that the ice at the groove's bottom and icicle were still there, there was more fresh snow blown around the lower part of the route and now there was also ice in the cracks to clear.

So happy with the condition of the lower section of the route I gave it another go.  Repelled with some sequence confusion on the crux which I knew from before and then the pump setting in I returned to the deck, rested, and started again...  This time I got through the crux, gained the upper corner still with both axes, and climbed the brilliant upper corner to the belay... ... It was great to get this climbed and the climbing quality, hooks, and nature of the route gives a brilliant winter route with 2 contrasting sections.  I am not really too sure about the grade but would suggest IX,9..."

Paddy Cave is supported by Sherpa Adventure Gear and The Epicentre

Check out Paddy's instructing website here: Mountain Circles


* Forums ( Read More... | 110 comments, 12 Dec 2012 )
The more damage you do or mark you leave when you climb, the more self-satisfying your actions are, with scant regard to the rest of us and the next generations of climbers. That could be over chalking problems/routes...
salancaster - 12 Dec 2012

That is bollocks. The grade of the route is irrelevant. An opinion should be judged on its merit, not on the climbing ability of the person who holds it. Yes, a more experienced climber may more often be in a better...
Robert Durran - 12 Dec 2012

I remember the incident with Andy K a few years back and am sure it was about Psychovertical and a guy called Boris B who seems to have vanished. It is healthy to have opinions, banter, and debate, but there are lots of...
Ian Black - 12 Dec 2012

We're probably stringing this out a bit now but.. The grade's very relevant only in that the grey area over conditions occurs most often in the high grades because of the type of terrain involved (overhanging, not as...
zero six - 12 Dec 2012

) from end of my post. look, its bloody obvious, if its a summer line and marginal or shite nick just bloody stay away! and wait until its in proper nick, if ever. If its a winter only line, and its marginal well,...
Erik B - 12 Dec 2012

Do they really, how do you know? I strongly disagree. You've taken my point far too personally and misunderstood it, it wasn't a swipe at you it was a swipe at the idea that someone's climbing experience is completely...
zero six - 12 Dec 2012

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