VIDEO: New Gritstone Highballs for Brimham

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Jan/2013
This news story has been read 9,569 times

Jordan Buys and James Ibbertson have added a couple of new micro routes / highball problems to Brimham, Yorkshire.

Jordan has climbed Time and Tide, E7 7A or highball 7c, which follows the rippled wall of gritstone to the right of the E8 7a arete of Tender Homecoming.

Jordan commented on the Wild Country Vimeo Page:

"Did a new route yesterday at Brimham, Dave Sutcliffe showed me this last weekend and I was immediately impressed and could not believe it had not been climbed. Then when I had a feel I realised why, progress from the perfect crimps to the top is guarded by a micro sloper. Its a fair pop to the top above what could be a sketchy landing if you did not use pads. The day was a bit epic, sleet showers kept on soaking the top and stopping play. Once the weather seemed to clear I had chance to get it on a oner on toppy, my plan was to go for a pre solo walk round Brimham to get my head sorted but a quick look at the incoming weather forced me into the desesion of either get the top covered with a pad or just get it done. As the sleet started to pitter patter on the pads and the top sloper I chalked up, cleaned my shoes and bashed out the solo.
Its a quality addition to Brimham and if you want to look at it as a boulder problem font 7c might well describe its difficulty. Ah yea and it climbs the wall to the right of Tender Homecoming, the old classic E8 7a."

And another fine looking addition is from James Ibbertson, who has been active at Little Brimham, climbing a new arete problem, and commenting on the Boreal Facebook Page:

"The highball/route is at Little Brimham and climbs the arête to the right of 'The Good News'.

It was listed as one of the last great problems in the new Yorkshire Grit Guide.

I'm really not sure about the grade but I'll give it a tentative Font 7b+/ E7 6C

I'm calling it 'The Righteous Path."

See a photo on the Boreal Facebook Page.

Jordan is sponsored by Moon Climbing , Wild Country , Boreal

James is sponsored by Boreal

 


* Forums ( Read More... | 54 comments, 04 Jan 2013 )
I'm not really a boulderer but am I right in thinking that the spotter holding his arms up is a pretty quixotic gesture if the climber comes off near the top? Looks awesome, though. As does the Brimham stuff, come to...
Ramblin dave - 04 Jan 2013

That's a route. Fall off that and you die or end up in a wheelchair. Quartz-monzonite patina as well, prone to breakage depending how fused it is. I forget the proposed E-grade.... E10 I think.... taller than many Hard...
Michael Ryan - UKC and UKH - 04 Jan 2013

Down climb. Depends on the boulder. Some are easy, others, like the Pollen Grain boulder with this problem on, are a tad tricky. I seem to remember down climbing to Lydia's Mouth, the alcove on the left (v3/4 to climb...
Michael Ryan - UKC and UKH - 04 Jan 2013

A couple of friends of mine spotted Nick Dixon on the original ascent of Tender Homecomings and the line they insisted that he climbed is the same as this, except using the micro edge for your right hand and slapping up...
gallam1 - 03 Jan 2013

typical ukc sh1te being talked, i think theres a good chance that a great deal of climbing gets filmed and never sees that light of day because of the reaction from the armchair punters on this website. 5 meters, 8...
mountassguard - 03 Jan 2013

In reply to.... Speaking as someone who was there when Jordan climbed it, it's hard, it looks scary and it's very easy to find from the car park so, if worried about the grade, go and have a look yourself, or even a...
alex - 03 Jan 2013

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