Font 8A at The Cuttings for Young Pair

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Jan/2013
This news story has been read 7,292 times

Young climbers Ellis Butler-Barker (16) and James Squire (16) have both made fast ascents of the technical and slightly high-ball Font 8A problem of Guy Fawkes at The Cuttings, Dorset.

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+Ellis Butler Barker on the thin crimps of Guy Fawkes, Font 8A, 251 kb
Ellis Butler Barker on the thin crimps of Guy Fawkes, Font 8A
UKC News, Jan 2013
© Tommy Harris

+Ellis Butler Barker on the high finish to Guy Fawkes, The Cuttings., 187 kb
Ellis Butler Barker on the high finish to Guy Fawkes, The Cuttings.
UKC News, Jan 2013
© Tommy Harris Ellis, from Devon, has been climbing less than two years, and has been romping through the grades. Read his account of his ascent of Guy Fawkes on his blog.

James Squire was previously in the UKC news with his ascents of other 8A problems here and here, and said of Guy Fawkes:

"After an early start, my family and I drove down to Portland, picking Ellis up on the way and headed over to The Cuttings crag and boulder field. The problem I was hoping to try was called Guy Fawkes (font 8a) originally climbed by Jimbo Kimber in 1999 and given 7c+, but afterwards a good starting jug (used for crucial feet in the crux) had broken off and was then climbed by John Gaskins at 7c+/8a and was then climbed again by strong traveller Dan Kennard and thought to be benchmark 8a. History lesson over, back to the climbing...

... After a gentle warm up, I flashed the stand-up version called 'Gunpowder Plot' at soft 6c and started working this sit start being 'Guy Fawkes' 8a. Within about half an hour I had all the beta and moves sorted: undercut into side pull, over to two horrible crimps, big move out left and into the stand! The next 45 mins was spent trying it from the start involving many close attempts but finally I pulled on and screamed my way through to the finish! Making that my first font 8a since my finger injury and my first climb of the year! (If you heard my power screams from anywhere further than London please let me know)."

Read the rest of James' account on his blog.

James Squire is sponsored by La Sportiva, Tip Juice and Base Cubic

Ellis is sponsored by Dartrock Climbing Centre, Base Cubic, Liquid Grip and Infinity Pro.


* Forums ( Read More... | 13 comments, 09 Jan 2013 )
Hi Guys, I too was a bit concered about the grade as always. When I first started trying it at the start of the session it felt nails, but when you get the beta and sequence sorted to fit you (and have small fingers) it...
Beastly Squirrel - 09 Jan 2013

I did it last year and two holds broke in one session! A foothold broke and made no difference, at least to me and a small piece broke of the right crimp. I haven't huge experience at this grade but its certainly...
duffy01 - 09 Jan 2013

Excellent effort guys! It is a tough problem. The only thing is that the grade is questionable (unless things have changed in the last 3 years). I reasearched who had climbed it, after I climbed it in Jan 2010, and it...
Sircumfrins - 09 Jan 2013

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