Spindrift: Lama and Ortner Open Alpine Testpieceby Rock and Ice Magazine Jan/2013
This news story has been read 5,750 times
Spindrift (VIII- M6 WI VI A1, 600 meters), takes a direct line through the center of the Laserz's icy North face, and involves mixed-climbing through a series of cracks and corners that provide decent ice axe placements but poor belays according to Lama's report on Planet Mountain.
Lama described the route to Planet Mountain as "outstanding, demanding, and gripping."
The Austrian duo had attempted the route last winter, but were turned back after the fourth pitch when they ran out of gear. On this attempt, the team brought two sets of camming devices, which allowed them to push to the summit. The technical difficulties of Spindrift exist mostly in the bottom half of the route, with the crux fourth pitch involving an overhanging five-meter crack. No bolts were placed on the ascent, and according to Planet Mountain, only a handful of pegs and two nuts remain fixed on the route.
"The experience was fantastic," concludes Lama in his report to Planet Mountain, "we were climbing pretty much at our limit."
The Austrian duo of Lama and Ortner make up one of the strongest teams in modern-day alpinism. Last year, they famously freed the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, which will remain one of the greatest achievements in climbing history. This year, David Lama will return to Patagonia, but will be climbing with the Eiger speed record holder Dani Arnold.
Read a full UKC Interview with David Lama here: UKC Interview
Over the hill? The wrong side of 40? Too many birthdays? Age is often used as an excuse to slow down and pursue less adventurous... Read more
British climbers Matt Burdekin and Tom Ripley have made the first ascent of a new line on the East Face of Aguja Bifida Sur... Read more
Tim Emmett and Slovenian climber Klemen Premrl have established a remarkable new line at Helmcken Falls in Canada, which the pair... Read more
Below is a fantastic 10 minute video of David Lama and Conrad Anker attempting Lunag Ri (6907m) on the border of Nepal and... Read more
David Lama has made the first ascent of Avaatara, 9a, in the Baatara Gorge, Lebanon. According to the video, he was the first to... Read more