Tom Peckitt on PaTina Turner (8B), Earl Crag
UKC News, Mar 2013
© Tom Peckitt (Screen shot from video) Tom Peckit has added an extremely thin looking new problem to Earl Crag, Yorkshire.
His new problem is a sit-start to the existing crimpy wall climb of Handy Andy's (V7), and Tom has named it PaTina Turner and offered a suggested grade of 8B.
Tom told UKC:
"The sit start to Handy Andy's at Earl attracted my attention late last year but never seemed to be in condition when I visited. On at least half a dozen occasions it was sopping wet, whilst the remainder of the crag was dry - incredibly annoying.
I haven't been counting but I've probably had about half a dozen good sessions on it and could/should/wish I had done it several sessions earlier. The subtlety and skin thrashing nature of the problem thwarted all of those efforts until today.
It involves a hard move from sitting to a small, crimpy and painful pinch with the right hand. The foothold is pretty terrible and it took a while to figure out 'micro-beta' to help it stick. On so many occasions I thought it was secure only for it to pop on the next move. Then you have to place your left heel by your left hand and pull through to a foothold used on Handy Andy's. A couple of tricky moves and a tough cut-loose and you're joining the stand up. I think the problem had seen some attention over the years and it's satisfying to get it done, if not rather painful!
As usual, it always feels easier on the send than first envisaged but I'll stick my neck out and go with the 8B grade."
There's a short video of Tom on the problem, which he told us about:
"The vid shows multiple attempts...I could have added quite a few more failures to be honest! Please excuse the crap footage but I do have a proper HD camcorder in the post. It'd be nice to go back and get some different angles at some point."
VIDEO: Tom Peckitt on the sit start to Handy Andy's
We asked Tom if he had been up to anything else recently:
Tom added an important point about a hold on the problem at Earl Crag:
"Not that anyone really does but just in case; just a polite request to try and avoid using the pinch hold as a foothold. It's quite flakey, which is fine for a handhold, but there's a chance it could snap or alter if used as a foothold. There's absolutely no need to use it as a foothold as plenty of alternatives but worth pointing out. If it did break it would probably leave a better hold, but no one wants that do they?"