VIDEO: Trio of New Problems for Dan Varianby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Apr/2013
This news story has been read 6,154 times
The trio of problems featured here are all in Scotland and are; The Annatomist (7C+) near Torridon, Rubha Dubh Dubh (7C+) Helicoidal Flow (8A+) at Reiff.
Helicoidal Flow has been reported on Greg Chapman's Elite UK Bouldering Inventory:
"Helicoidal Flow (8A+) climbs an obvious and eye-catching seam feature to the right of the classic 7B/E7 (depending on whether you top out or not), Undertow on the 'Bouldering Cliff' described on page 168 of the newest edition on the 'Bouldering in Scotland' guidebook..."
You can check out all three problems in the video below:
Dan has blogged about his fruitful trip to Scotland on the Beastmaker Blog and he describes Helicoidal Flow:
"To me this is perfect bouldering. A serene setting and some incredible rock, a line that defines bouldering. It starts from a perfect sit start and heads up to jugs to finish (its only drawback is its lack of topout) The moves are fantastic and the holds only work when used with loads of tension through the feet and are some of the most unique i've ever used, not a single hold until the catch hold is easily holdable with feet off. Its called Helicoidal flow due to the rock on this wall mimicking water with its strata and features. Like undertow its also a flow process. It also seems to sum up the dynamics of my legs swirling about nicely."
Dan Varian likes hanging off Beastmakers in the hope it'll make him stronger.