Pete Robins on Pump Up The Jam (8c) Pigeon's Cave, North Wales.
© Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor, Sep 2011
Pete Robins has just climbed an old project in Pigeon's Cave, on the Great Orme, Llandudno, to give Pump up the Jam, 8c.
Pump up the Jam, located in the notoriously greasy Pigeon's Cave is a very short, and extremely bouldery route featuring easy climbing up to a single move rating V10/7C+, into a V8+/7B+ section into an easier topout.
Pete, no stranger to hard boulder problems or sport routes having climbed multiple 8B boulders and 8c+ sport routes over the last few years, has given it the grade of 8c despite originally thinking it would be easier. After making quick progress it seemed it wouldn't be too much of a problem, however Pete managed to drop the route right at the easy top-out, completely spent from the lower hard section. Returning on Sunday 9th June, Pete finally clipped the chains on his fifth redpoint of the day.
Commenting on the DMM website, Pete said:
"I didn't really want to give it 8c but thats the amount of effort it took to complete it"
It is unclear who first bolted the line but Kristian Clemmow and Mark Katz, both very strong climbers, had both tried the line but did not complete the project in the past.
Local Ormesman, Chris Doyle managed to get the ascent on video, and is producing a film featuring many of the major first ascents on North Wales Limestone from the last few years, which he is hoping to finish soon, so keep an eye out for that.
Pete then headed off to climb an esoteric George Smith E5 called Primeval. Despite the fact it was wet and the tide was heading out, Pete dispensed the route as a Deep Water Solo.
You can read more about Pete's ascent and other news from the Ormes on Chris Doyle's blog.
Here is Chris' video of Pete soloing Primeval, E5/7a: