Celt and Tesni Lloyd-Jones Climb FA in Twll Mawrby Duncan Campbell - UKC Jun/2013
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Tesni (14) and Celt (11) Lloyd-Jones recently made their first visit to Twll Mawr in the Dinorwig slate quarries getting straight on an unclimbed line. The two pitch route, named Imagine Dragons, 6b was climbed on-sight by the siblings after it had been equipped by their Dad, a prolific slate developer, Ian Lloyd-Jones.
On arriving for the first time in Twll Mawr, the siblings were "in awe" finding themselves in the eponymous 'Big Hole', as it's name translates, where such routes as Joe Brown's Opening Gambit, XS 5c, and Johnny Dawes' The Quarryman, E8 7a are found.
Arriving at the base of their prospective new route from the access tunnel, it was Tesni who took the lead on the first of the two 6b pitches that lead to the top. This pitch climbs a steep wall split by cracks. In his report to us, Ian commented:
"This pitch requires a degree of flexibilty and a determined and confident approach on the wild laybacking moves."
Celt then took the lead on the top pitch, which first traverses leftwards out from the belay before climbing up to a short, technical groove, which is the crux of the pitch.
Ian added: "Celt let out an Adam Ondra-style power scream as he made a committing dyno to gain the top of the groove".
This is the latest in a line of new routes climbed throughout the slate quarries and at Penmaen Head by Celt and Tesni Lloyd-Jones, and hopefully there will be plenty more to come.
Celt and Tesni Lloyd-Jones are both members of the North Wales Youth Academy and are supported by Evolv