More crushing by Megos in Frankenjuraby Björn Pohl - UKC Jun/2013
This news story has been read 6,096 times
The weather has been far from good in Frankenjura lately meaning lots of rain, but this hasn't stopped Alexander Megos much.
First, he made a 3rd go repeat of the classic Powerplay, 8c, at Zwergenschloss in the Wiesental, but this was just the start.
Moving on to the Pegnitztal, he did Cringer, 8c, and Battle cat, 8c+, both 2nd go, and then Sever the wicked hand, 9a, in four tries.
At Rotenstein in the Leinleitertal, he repeated The last rites, 8c+, and Elder statesman, 9a.
Finally, in the Klumpertal Alex managed to make the first ascent of a 15 year old project. The crux of Dicker Bert, 9a, is to get the feet off the ground and then to make it through a technical crux of four or five moves on micro edges, before the main difficulties end and the route goes left up a slab which is rather atypical of the area.
That's three 9a's, two 8c+'s and two 8c's. Not too crappy a tick list! Considering the weather I mean...
Soon, Alexander will be on his way to Australia where he will spend two months.
Here is an interview with Patrick Matros who coaches Alex together with Dicki Korb.
Alex Megos is sponsored by: Tenaya, Patagonia and DMM
British climbers Matt Burdekin and Tom Ripley have made the first ascent of a new line on the East Face of Aguja Bifida Sur... Read more
Tim Emmett and Slovenian climber Klemen Premrl have established a remarkable new line at Helmcken Falls in Canada, which the pair... Read more
Last year we totally surprised ourselves - we ran a footless comp and somehow it worked. It actually worked so well that we felt... Read more