Tuppence, 8a+/b, for Peter Dawsonby Duncan Campbell - UKC Jul/2013
This news story has been read 5,457 times
Strong Devonshire youth, Peter Dawson (14), recently redpointed Tuppence, 8a+/b, at Anstey's Cove. Found on the Ferocity Wall, Tuppence was first climbed by the very strong and talented Ken Palmer. Although given 8a+ it is widely thought of as 8b.
Peter climbed the route in around five sessions, having worked most of the moves on his first try at the end of the day, he returned during his half-term holidays, and managed to get all the moves sorted and make some good links. He then began to start redpointing the route, though did not manage a clean ascent during this session. On his fourth session Pete managed to stick the double dyno and climb through the technical crux, but fell going for the good hold that marks the end of the crux section. Returning on Saturday the 29th June, Peter managed to redpoint the route despite the high temperatures.
Describing the climbing and how he found certain sections harder than the supposed crux section, Peter said:
"The hardest move on the route for me was where you had to dyno from two crimps to get a sloper and as you fell grab a jug next to it. it was like really precise... Now came what was thought of as the crux but I found quite easy, you set up on a gaston and a crimp, then get the famous drop-knee, to reach a crimp... I had to get my feet really high and slap for the next jug. After this was the top section with a load of powerful slaps off undercuts, until you got a sloper and had to stab for a triangle jug, then it's pretty much over."
Commenting on the experience of putting in a relatively large amount of time onto one project, and the grade of Tuppence, Peter said:
"I was so happy and it was great to work something that long and finally do it. The feeling was great and I can't wait to find another prject to try! Although it is graded 8a+, it is widely regarded as 8b, I'd agree with this as it feels harder than the other 8bs I've done"
Peter Dawson is sponsored by: No Sweat Outdoors and Rock & Rapid Adventures