Indian Face E9 for James McHaffie

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Jul/2013
This news story has been read 13,776 times

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+Sophie Evitt and James McHaffie at Brimham Rocks, Yorkshire., 162 kb
Sophie Evitt and James McHaffie at Brimham Rocks, Yorkshire.
UKC Articles, Apr 2012
© Jack Geldard
James McHaffie has repeated The Indian Face (E9 6c) on Clogwyn Du'r'Arddu (Cloggy), North Wales. This is one of the most famous hard climbs in the UK and is renowned for its extreme boldness.

The gear was considerably worse than I expected! I didn't decide I was going to do it till I was half way up...

 

James McHaffie commits himself to The Indian Face - E9 6c

James has also recently repeated Gribbin Wall Climb (E9 6c) on Clogwyn y Tarw, Ogwen valley, North Wales. We were going to write a report about this ascent but James has only gone and knocked his own news off our to-do list with his Indian Face ascent.

James is one of the UK's top climbers - both sport and trad - and first had an adventure with this blank featureless wall of Cloggy twelve years ago when he attempted to onsight the E7 of Master's Wall. James found himself off route, in between Master's Wall and The Indian Face, with no protection, and no chance of climbing up or down. He was eventually rescued in what could be one of the most harrowing events in British trad climbing history.

+Cloggy East Buttress, 50 kb
Cloggy East Buttress
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor
© Jack Geldard
We asked James to tell us a little more about his ascent of The Indian Face:

"I messed about on it for a couple of hours on a GriGri in the morning checking the harder moves and then led it in the afternoon with George Ullrich belaying. I could say a lot about this climb but suffice to say I was happy to do it first day, minus the epic twelve years ago."

We will bring you more information on James' recent exploits soon on UKC - watch this space...


James McHaffie is sponsored by Arc'teryx , DMM , Sterling Rope and Five Ten


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