Dark Energy, 8c+, for Pete Robinsby Duncan Campbell - UKC Aug/2013
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Pete Robins has just made the first ascent of a new 8c+ in Pigeon's Cave on the Great Orme. The route, Dark Energy, is the first to climb through the massive roof feature of the crag, taking on the biggest part of the roof in doing so.
Pete has been steadily ticking off hard North Wales Limestone routes for some time now, with ascents of Liquid Ambar, Sea of Tranquility and Megalopa all 8c+ at LPT, in addition to this he made the first ascent of Diamond Dogs,8c+, at the Diamond last year and recently the first ascent of Pump up the Jam, 8c, at Pigeon's Cave. Speaking to UKC, Pete explained how the route came to be:
"The line was virgin territory, although I'm sure people had eyed up the huge roof, there was no evidence anybody had aided across it. So in the depths of last winter, I decided I'd stared at it long enough, picked up the drill and bolted it up - this was a very cold and wet experience, bolting in a waterfall! To my amazement, it looked incredible, and doable; just enough perfectly positioned holds, features and angles to wrap around and climb between. Very heel-ey and very me. I'd hoped it would be 9a, but it wasn't quite there, damn it!"
Having fallen off from the last move on the lip on his previous session, Pete headed back down to pigeons, raring to go, managing to climb it first redpoint of the session. Talking about the difficulty and the quality of Dark Energy, Pete said:
"I can't really compare it to other hard routes like Diamond Dogs because it's a horizontal roof! But it didn't take as long to siege, maybe because its easier, it suits me more, or I'm better at red-pointing (I wish!). It's super accessible, really really good, and only contains lovely holds, so I'm hoping somebody will get on it soon!"