Major Eiger Free Ascent for Jasper and Schali

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Aug/2013
This news story has been read 5,116 times

German climber Robert Jasper and Swiss climber Roger Schäli have made the first free ascent of the Ghilini-Piola route on the North Face of the Eiger at a tough 7c.

The pair tried the route back in 2006, topping out after two and a half days and after using a fair amount of aid. They returned to the climb during 2007, 2008 and 2009, working sections and re-equipping the loose and bold rock.

This year the pair found good enough conditions to allow them to make a 1 day free ascent of this long and difficult route. They took 14 hours on the route and found the 17th, 18th and 20th pitches to be the crux.

This is the third major free ascent on the Eiger North face for the pair, following the Japanese Direttissima (2009) and the Harlin Direttissima (2010).

The following photo gallery is from Frank Kretschmann:

photo
Robert Jasper on the first free ascent of the Ghilini-Piola, Eiger N Face
UKC News, Aug 2013
© Frank Kretschmann

+Roger Schäli on the first free ascent of the Ghilini-Piola, Eiger N Face, 225 kbRoger Schäli on the first free ascent of the Ghilini-Piola, Eiger N Face
© Frank Kretschmann

+Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli on the first free ascent of the Ghilini-Piola, Eiger N Face, 212 kbRobert Jasper and Roger Schäli on the first free ascent of the Ghilini-Piola, Eiger N Face
© Frank Kretschmann

 

Robert Jasper has several sponsors including: GORE-TEX, Marmot and Petzl

 

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