Gabriele Moroni ticking off Classified, 9a+
Björn Pohl - UKC, Sep 2013
© Moroni collection Instagram
Gabriele Moroni has made the second ascent of Alexander Megos' Classified, ~9a+, on the Holzgauer wand, Frankenjura.
The route, which has been described as a ~20m fiesta of small shallow pockets followed by even smaller shallower ones, is a direct exit to Guido Köstermeyer's Des Mos, 8b+, and was bolted by Christian Bindhammer some 10 years ago. Before Alex' ascent it had been tried by Bindhammer and Markus Bock without success.
Here is an interview with Gabri:
Hi Gabri, what can you tell me about the ascent?
So two days ago I took a restday and yesterday morning I came back to try to finish it... but it went pretty bad and I got pissed off. A friend of mine had his project in Holzgauer wand where Classified is. So we got there and decided to try again the moves one more time. It felt really good so I decided to give one serious attempt and after a big fight I got to the top.
Is it correct to say the route is mostly about small pockets?
8b+ into 8A+/B sounds absolutely nails!
Yes, about that, I know you had a chat with Alex yesterday about the grade...
Would you say this is your hardest route to date?
Are you still in Franken?
Alright, so do you have any projects left?
Thanks a lot Gabri and best of luck with your projects!
Here is a video from Gabri's visit to Frankenjura in April this year, together with Silvio Reffo.