The Portuguese team of Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo has completed a new route on Kapura Peak (6544m) in the Nanga Valley in Pakistan. The route, Never Ending Dreams (M4), follows a 60-degree ice slope up a 1300m (4,265ft) southwest spur of Kapura South (6350m).
Two days later, Teixeira and Roxo made an alpine start and began to ascend the route from the col, which they named Alam’s col, after their cook’s son. Encountering good ice during the first 1500-feet of climbing, the crux came at a five pitch traverse on an “unconsolidated thin layer of snow plastered on the rock, which made for some nervous moves on mixed ground,” the team reported.
After difficult route finding and nearly 18 hours on the route, the Portuguese pair finally reached the summit of South Kapura at 6 p.m., establishing Never Ending Dreams (1300m, M4). Their route marks the first time anyone has summited Kapura from the Nanga Valley side.
Kapura Peak was first climbed by Steve House, Marko Prezelj, Doug Chabot, Bruce Miller and Steve Swenson in 2004
This report first appeared on the Rock and Ice Website
You can read a full account of this trip with photos on the Rab Blog
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