New Route on Kapura Peak in Pakistanby Andrew Hewitt - Rock and Ice Sep/2013
This news story has been read 3,178 times
The Portuguese team of Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo has completed a new route on Kapura Peak (6544m) in the Nanga Valley in Pakistan. The route, Never Ending Dreams (M4), follows a 60-degree ice slope up a 1300m (4,265ft) southwest spur of Kapura South (6350m).
Two days later, Teixeira and Roxo made an alpine start and began to ascend the route from the col, which they named Alam’s col, after their cook’s son. Encountering good ice during the first 1500-feet of climbing, the crux came at a five pitch traverse on an “unconsolidated thin layer of snow plastered on the rock, which made for some nervous moves on mixed ground,” the team reported.
After difficult route finding and nearly 18 hours on the route, the Portuguese pair finally reached the summit of South Kapura at 6 p.m., establishing Never Ending Dreams (1300m, M4). Their route marks the first time anyone has summited Kapura from the Nanga Valley side.
Kapura Peak was first climbed by Steve House, Marko Prezelj, Doug Chabot, Bruce Miller and Steve Swenson in 2004
This report first appeared on the Rock and Ice Website
You can read a full account of this trip with photos on the Rab Blog
Over the hill? The wrong side of 40? Too many birthdays? Age is often used as an excuse to slow down and pursue less adventurous... Read more
British climbers Matt Burdekin and Tom Ripley have made the first ascent of a new line on the East Face of Aguja Bifida Sur... Read more
Tim Emmett and Slovenian climber Klemen Premrl have established a remarkable new line at Helmcken Falls in Canada, which the pair... Read more
Chamonix-based British alpinists Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman have just returned from Pakistan having made the successful first... Read more
In this excellent film from Latitude Photography we see Raphael Slawinski, Ian Welsted and Jesse Huey travel to... Read more
Three Iranian climbers have perished after making a first ascent on the South-West Face of Broad Peak (8051m). The... Read more