Chris Sharma To Try Dawn Wall Project On El Capitan

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Oct/2013
This news story has been read 10,252 times

Chris Sharma is set to join Tommy Caldwell on his attempts on the well known 'Dawn Wall' project on El Capitan. Caldwell, one of the best big wall climbers in the world, has been trying to free climb this line for the last five years.

Daila Ojeda and Chris Sharma enjoying a beer at the Friedrichshafen Tradeshow
UKC Gear, Jul 2011
© Mick Ryan UKC/UKH

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+The Dawn wall/Mescalito project, 127 kb
The Dawn wall/Mescalito project
UKC Articles, Jan 2011
© Kevin Jorgeson
The team for this season now stands as Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, Jonathan Siegrist and Chris Sharma. Caldwell has been attempting the line since 2007, Jorgeson joined him in 2009 and Siegrist joined them last season. Now with the addition of Chris Sharma, this really is an all star team. With seven pitches reportedly in the 8c+ bracket and many more hard pitches on top of that the Dawn Wall project, which vaguely follows the aid route Mescalito, would be the hardest big wall free route in the world if successfully climbed.

Hopefully the closure of the national parks in America will be short-lived and the team will be able to have a good autumn attempting the route.

In a report on, Kevin Jorgeson commented:

"Tommy and I have our calendars blacked out until Christmas, and weather permitting we will be there till then. I think J-Star and Sharma have some obligations in November that will cut their season a bit shorter."

We asked Jonathan Siegrist whether the goal is to free all the pitches in one push, or if is that a later goal?:

Not sure exactly what the goal is honestly - Tommy is the goal man! We are all just slaves... ha!
I think for the meantime just to finish all of the pitches is the goal. Got three more to go...

We've covered Tommy's efforts on The Dawn Wall several times over the years on UKC, and earlier this year we published this excellent video:

Tommy Caldwell on the Dawn Wall Project


Forums ( Read More... | 23 comments, 30 Oct 2013 )
Does this route play to Sharma's strengths though? From what I've seen, the crux pitches on Dawn Wall are very thin and slabby, whereas Sharma prefers big moves on more positive holds on steep overhangs.
PeterJuggler - 02 Oct 2013

Sean, I think, but yes. Evidently M S-G has declared her intention to break the all-comers speed record. That would be pretty cool. I suppose one benefit of the US gov't clusterf*ck will be that those actually on a...
johncoxmysteriously - 02 Oct 2013

That "some other woman" is Libby Sauter. A previous woman's record holder and one of the first women to complete the Nose/NW regular route link up in under 24hours. ...
tommytuffa - 02 Oct 2013

Lots of very bouldery 5.14 pitches so cold improves friction presumably (I'll ask him next time I see him at can do that there). In the various films of Tommy's efforts he's often working stuff in light...
Offwidth - 02 Oct 2013

This is the season? I'd have thought December was not a particular El Cap season - shows what I know. They should ask Ondra along. Slightly surprised no coverage yet of Mayan G-S and [sorry, some other woman I've not...
johncoxmysteriously - 02 Oct 2013

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