UKC

Dan Varian Adds New 8B+ to Bowden

© Mark Savage

Dan Varian on The Rail - 8B+  © Mark Savage
Dan Varian on The Rail - 8B+
© Mark Savage
Dan Varian has added a desperate new sandstone mega-problem - The Rail - to Bowden Doors in Northumberland.

The problem weighs in at roughly 8B+ and climbs a beautiful wall of textured sandstone.

Dan told UKC:

"'The Rail' is the project I did yesterday, it is hands down the best boulder I've ever climbed when difficulty is thought of with quality. It is cursed though as it's ridiculously friction dependent in nature and faces the sun pretty much all day so it has been a real battle, with it being wet most of last year too. In the end i just had to get stronger and switched to a better shoe company and it went down ok. It is only slightly less conditions dependent than trying to manufacture an Omega Point.

If everything is taken together it should roughly clock in at 8B+ with my sequence, any sweat and it will feel a lot harder. It is mainly thanks to Katie Mundy's support and her family that I've been able to call in on it relatively often. That and some sage advice from Bob Smith to be there when it counts.

Bowden is fragile so people need to be fully aware not to try this or other climbs when they are anything but bone dry."

This is another fantastic and desperate problem from Dan Varian, who has been featured regularly in the UKC news for the past few years. You can read more about Dan in these UKC News Items.


Dan Varian likes hanging off Beastmakers in the hope it'll make him stronger.


This post has been read 18,711 times

Return to Latest News


Dan Varian
Carlisle

Dan is a prolific first ascensionist based out of Carlisle. He has developed many grade 8 problems in The Peak District, The Lakes, Yorkshire, Northumberland, and Scotland. He is well known for his hard highball...

Dan's Athlete Page 17 posts 2 videos



11 Oct, 2013
Awesome to see this finally go down. Some absolute beasts have given this some serious attention over the years and it's a stellar line. Well done Dan
11 Oct, 2013
which shoe company used to sponsor Dan? I was struck by 'swap to a better shoe company'. Well done on the boulder.
11 Oct, 2013
Yeah it was such an obviously beautiful unclimbed line, if I it is where I think it is - Dan has plucked a rare one, and is clearly on fire. Also good to see rock protection on the sandstone flagged up, since this is a particular difficulty for boulder problems.
11 Oct, 2013
Used to be sponsored by Five Ten
11 Oct, 2013
Thanks, seems a provocative statement.
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email