Dan Varian Adds New 8B+ to Bowden

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Oct/2013
This news story has been read 11,225 times

+Dan Varian on The Rail - 8B+, 91 kbDan Varian on The Rail - 8B+
© Mark Savage
Dan Varian has added a desperate new sandstone mega-problem - The Rail - to Bowden Doors in Northumberland.

The problem weighs in at roughly 8B+ and climbs a beautiful wall of textured sandstone.

Dan told UKC:

"'The Rail' is the project I did yesterday, it is hands down the best boulder I've ever climbed when difficulty is thought of with quality. It is cursed though as it's ridiculously friction dependent in nature and faces the sun pretty much all day so it has been a real battle, with it being wet most of last year too. In the end i just had to get stronger and switched to a better shoe company and it went down ok. It is only slightly less conditions dependent than trying to manufacture an Omega Point.

If everything is taken together it should roughly clock in at 8B+ with my sequence, any sweat and it will feel a lot harder. It is mainly thanks to Katie Mundy's support and her family that I've been able to call in on it relatively often. That and some sage advice from Bob Smith to be there when it counts.

Bowden is fragile so people need to be fully aware not to try this or other climbs when they are anything but bone dry."

This is another fantastic and desperate problem from Dan Varian, who has been featured regularly in the UKC news for the past few years. You can read more about Dan in these UKC News Items.


Dan Varian likes hanging off Beastmakers in the hope it'll make him stronger.

Dan is sponsored by Scarpa , Outdoor Research

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