FRI NIGHT VID: WCJ - A Few Hidden Classics

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Oct/2013
This news story has been read 6,071 times

This week's Friday Night Video is some Peak Limestone sport climbing courtesy of Jon Clark.

Jon introduces his video on Vimeo:

Water-cum-Jolly is a stunning and beautiful valley in the Peak District, that contains some of the best and hardest sport climbing in the area. It is also home to a large variety of wildlife, which makes the dale a fantastic place to climb and walk.

This short video gives a glimpse at some of the wildlife that can be seen in the area, and features 3 classic sport routes from the late 1980's and early 1990's:

Agent Provocateur - 8a+
The Free Monster - 8a
Rumble in the Jungle - 8a+


Forums ( Read More... | 19 comments, 20 Oct 2013 )
) "Original" I was think of as basically right hand on the dead rope, left on the live - just like a normal belay device - not really touching the grigri itself. Just found the Petzl vid - Sharma is showing...
TobyA - 20 Oct 2013

Well there's The official Petzl way and then there are the others. As Jonny rightly says, the ground at the bottom of crags is hardly littered with bodies - draw your own conclusions! But to the film. I just love...
jon - 20 Oct 2013

By "original" do you mean the "approved" (I would have said Ethan uses the original method, but i would have also called that the thumb on cam method whereas you refer to them as different things)? ...
AJM - 20 Oct 2013

Fair enough. The more I use a grigri - mainly the old one on my thickish rope, the more I find no matter how I try I can't get the original method to work. It just locks as soon as you try to feed rope out - so have...
TobyA - 20 Oct 2013

I thought it wasn't: isn't the 'now approved' method you use your right hand thumb to keep the cam pushed down and yard out the rope with your left? Then the rope can still be running under your right, so you're sort of...
TobyA - 20 Oct 2013

That how the vast majority of sport climbers use them, and yet we're hardly knee deep in bodies. Nice vid, WCJ Cornice is one of the gems of Peak sport, hopefully DWT will continue to be tolerant towards us.
Jonny2vests - 20 Oct 2013

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