Jan Hojer climbs Mecanique Elementaire, ~8Cby Björn Pohl - UKC Oct/2013
This news story has been read 4,251 times
German power house Jan Hojer has made the second ascent of Mecanique Elementaire, ~8C, at Recloses, Fontainebleau. The problem was put up in December 2005 by Sébastien Frigault.
Jan needed only two sessions, if you count the one he had when he did Opium, ~8A, in February last year, and felt it was probably more 8B+ than 8C for him.
I had a chat with him about it:
So Jan, you're at it again. Killing off 8C's that is.
Haha yeah... Just took a little summer rest but started to train again... And it pays off!
Seems Fontainebleau suits you, even though it shouldn't.
Many people are surprised that I like Font?!
Yeah... well, I guess Font is sort of known for being a lot about feet. All those technical French guys in Boreal Ninjas...
And you're sort of known for campusing everything.
Ty[ler Landman] also campused the whole forest... Many years ago!
True! Guess it's all about power then after all...
It is ;)
This Mecanique Elementaire that you did... what's the style?
Steep, athletic roof with good holds except for the starting crimps. And a pretty reachy 8A at the end ;) [Jan is almost 190cm, so this would suit him].
So the start is the crux for you?
Yeah.. Took me 20 tries to stick the second hold. Kind of a one arm catch at a good slopy hole.
Those are hard yeah... How long will you stay in Font?
Could stay till next Thursday but it's supposed to rain a lot... I just hope to finish off Trip Hop[another Frigault ~8C]
Good luck with that! I imagine the crux is having power left when you get to the dyno move? There is such a move right?
Yes there is and I stuck it twice coming from the bottom! It's not really over then but I have something like a 50% chance to Top it I'll try again tomorrow... The last dry day
If you've fallen there twice, your chance of doing it next time should be 150%, no problem!
Something like that.
Anyway, best of luck with that! Looking forward to seeing that power at Legends Only in a month!
Haha thanks, see you then!
Our Friday Night Video this week is a beautifully filmed piece by actor, singer-songwriter and director Jared Leto. With stunning... Read more
Shawn Raboutou, 18, has repeated Monkey wedding and Spray of light, both ~8C, in Rocklands. Rumours have been... Read more
Adam Ondra is now back in Flatanger where he intends to work some of his remaining projects. On his way there he made a couple of... Read more
In late February, German climber Markus Jung went to Fontainebleau for a weekend. He used his time time well and managed to... Read more
German climber Jonas Winter has repeated Vincent Pochon's The Big Island, ~8C, at Coquibus Rumont, Fontainebleau. It... Read more