UPDATED: Vasil Vasil, new 9b+ by Ondra!by Björn Pohl - UKC Dec/2013
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Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of Vasil Vasil, 9b+, a route he bolted himself five years ago at Sloup in the Czech Republic.
It's a short route which starts with a 7 meter burly 8b section the leads straight into an 8B+ boulder section. It's more or less a "one move route" as the key move is at least 8B in its own right.
Hi Adam, congrats on your new route! This one wasn't nearly as hyped as Change or La Dura Dura...
The route is not worth being hyped! It is just local piece of rock, which is important for us, not for the world climbing though. And because it is almost a one-mover, the harder it is to keep the things positive and make at least minimal progress. There were many days when I thought I could do it, but in the end I couldn't do that move even as a single move.
Last weekend, climbing third day on and after the qualification for a local comp, I made a short trip and finally stuck the move. I hadn't expected that at all, my fingers went numb and fell in the next move. But I knew it was possible.
Unfortunately, I landed really hard after topping out the first problem in the finals that day, my ankle hurt and I thought the season was over. Fortunately, it is only a lump on the heel and this little injury made me take two days rest and I felt super strong.
The next day I slipped in the crux and bruised my skin a little, so I saved my energy and skin for today and it paid off! It might be weird that I am so happy after having done such a "piece of shit" (referring to the fact that the route is short, painful and in a dirty place), but it was really important for me. The existence of those holds, the seeming impossibility irritated me for a long time... I bolted it 5 years ago and I was urged to send it... One day... And so I did. Better now than never.
You say 20-25 days. How many tries would you typically do in a session?
I usually gave it two tries a day. My skin could not bear more and even though it is short, it makes me tired. The second go was always worse but it was good training. Additionally, you have to climb the route when it is COLD (I did it in minus 2), thus you can't rest too much in between the attempts otherwise you get cold.
Thanks a lot Adam!
This was Adam's third 9b+ first ascent, after Change andLa Dura Dura.