VIDEO: Italian E9 Ground-up for Pearson
by Duncan Campbell - UKC Dec/2013
This news story has been read 9,882 times
Ex-pat British climber, James Pearson has just made the first ground-up (third overall) ascent of Is Not Always Pasqua?, E9 7a, at Collina di Interprete in Central Italy. James' ascent was also the first placing all the gear on lead.
The route was first put up by Mauro Calibani in 2002, who inspired by 'Hard Grit' came over to England to sample the unique style of climbing on our Gritstone edges. Suitably inspired, Mauro headed back to Italy and made the first ascent of Is Not Always Pasqua?, grading it E9 7a, further describing it as 8b climbing into a 7C+ boulder problem to finish. You can find out more at Planetmountain.com. The route has had one other repeat, at the hands of Christian Brenna, who also headpointed the route with pre-placed gear.
James first tried the route a year ago, but he found that he did not have the correct sized cam to protect the crux of the route and so did not complete it. Coming back this year, James had the correct gear, but was feeling a little injured. However, after doing a slightly easier project line on the crag and feeling good, on his last day, James had a go at his dream route, managing to climb it ground-up placing all gear on lead.
Here is the video of James' successful ascent:
James Pearson is sponsored by: Adidas Eyewear, Eat Natural, Edelrid, La Sportiva, The North Face and Wild Country
| Forums ( Read More... | 67 comments, 22 Jan 2014 )|
|Technically you may be correct but ideally ground-up should be in the same spirit as onsight i.e. just turn up, no beta, the only difference being it takes more than one attempt. This IMO is often more impressive than a...|
Michael Gordon - 21 Jan 2014
He is being honest, he is claiming a ground up, placing gear on the lead not an onsight ascent. He can watch as many people as he likes dog the route, do whatever they like on the route as he isn't claiming an onsight...
Guy - 21 Jan 2014
There are a lot of tick marks on that rock for a ground-up ascent. Is someone trying to tell me that somebody abbed in, cleaned and chalked the holds, put marks where all the gear was to be placed, told him the exact...
airbournegrapefruit - 20 Jan 2014
|Speaking clearly is one thing, speaking English badly is another. It's not going to help people understand. I taught English as foreign language for a number of years so I'm not making this up. It also make the native...|
TobyA - 29 Dec 2013
Having spent the last several months talking to Spanish people who don't speak great English, I can confirm that the Spanish folk preferred that we spoke broken English with exaggerated pronunciation than just speak...
cha1n - 28 Dec 2013
I would guess that he isn't trying to help people learn English, he is probably just trying to communicate. I found when I moved abroad lots of people spoke English but struggled with my accent. So of course I had to...
Jiduvah - 28 Dec 2013
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