VIDEO: Dawn wall project, a status update

by Björn Pohl - UKC Jan/2014
This news story has been read 10,411 times

After having invested a total of eight seasons in the Dawn wall project on El Capitan in the Yosemite valley, "the hardest route never climbed", Kevin Jorgeson talks about the status of the project at the end of the 2013 season.

Although they have yet to redpoint two out of the three crux pitches, 14-15-16, all of which weigh in around 9a or so, Kevin seems cautiously confident this year could be the year.
To give you an idea, the one of the three Tommy Caldwell managed to do is probably the most difficult trad pitch ever climbed...

We are going to have to wait a while though as the Dawn Wall free climbing season doesn't begin until mid October or so.

Kevin Jorgeson is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Five Ten, Sterling Rope, adidas, asana, raw revolution and super feet

Tommy Caldwell is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Blue Water Ropes, Clif Bar, Climb On, La Sportiva, Patagonia and Revo Sunglasses

Forums ( Read More... | 18 comments, 12 Jan 2014 )
The comments here are making me cringe, so here is my two cents, sorry, tuppence. The pitch Tommy freed on the dawn wall proj is NOT a trad pitch. Its is primarily protected by bolts, and fixed pins, so the claim that...
yankeedoodle - 12 Jan 2014

Maybe Century is 8c/+, but the main difference is you can hit the ground head first if you fall out of the crack (as Pete and Tom did it anyway, or you can carry a few more massive cams, your choice!). These pitches...
1poundSOCKS - 10 Jan 2014

I remember those falls pretty well. I wouldn't even dream of detracting anything from what he's doing because the route is not completely on natural gear, I'll leave that to the trad talibans ; ) I was just trying to...
Rest Jug - 10 Jan 2014

In one of the videos somewhere I'm sure Tommy was talking about trying to keep it 'interesting' with the bolting - you can see him taking some huge lobs trying the face pitches! I wouldn't call it sport climbing. More...
willworkforfoodjnr - 10 Jan 2014

Not all pitches in that project are protected with gear. At 03:09 in the video you can clearly see Tommy climbing on a bolt. Given that the route is renowned for "addressing a section of the wall that doesn't have...
Rest Jug - 09 Jan 2014

If by "they" you mean Caldwell and team, do we actually have any suggestion that they have ever applied French grades to this route? Every topo that I've ever seen has used normal American ratings. Is it not...
Ian Parsons - 09 Jan 2014

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