VIDEO: Guillaume Glairon Mondet climbs Jour de Chasse, ~8Cby Björn Pohl - UKC Jan/2014
This news story has been read 3,711 times
Guillaume Glairon Mondet has made the second ascent of Jan Hojer's Jour de Chasse, ~8C, at Recloses, Fontainebleau.
Jour de Chasse shares the same start as Sébastien Frigault's Mécanique Élémentaire, ~8B+/C, but exit's through Narcotic. ~8A+, instead of Opium, ~8A.
After a quick warm up and retro flashing Narcotic direct [8B], I decided to try the first move of Jour de Chasse, which is for me the hardest move of the boulder. And luckily, with the good friction, and and my old climbing shoes, I was so much comfortable on the heel hook and did it first try. And on my third try of this session, I was on top of this incredible problem, with totally crazy moves!! For the grade, even if it took me about 6 sessions to do it, it felt me really easy this day, so we'll see with the time and repeaters!!
This was Guillaume's third 8C after The Big Island and Trip-hop.