VIDEO: Stamina Training with Tom Randall

by Duncan Campbell - UKC Mar/2014
This news story has been read 8,117 times

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+Tom Randall's Stamina Training, 81 kb

Circuit Boards are cropping up in more and more climbing walls around the country, mainly as form of training for route climbers who want something that requires no belaying, low fuss and quick fitness hit. Wild Country have teamed up with The Climbing Station and Tom Randall to create a video series to help you train effectively for the year's climbing.

In this video, Tom Randall from The Climbing Station will be taking you through some exercises to train stamina on a circuit board. You will be able to take these principles to any circuit board at almost any angle and get the most out of your training!

Stamina Principles:

  1. Low intensity climbing, high volume, short rests.
  2. Train at different intensities: vary the pump level. 
  3. Be prepared to drop your grades so you can increase the amount of climbing. 
  4. Use low intensity stamina training as a form of recovery.

+Gracie Martin training stamina on a circuit board, 82 kb
Gracie Martin training stamina on a circuit board
UKC News, Feb 2014
© Lois Frost

High Intensity Stamina:

  1. Vary the intensity and aim to work on steeper walls. 
  2. Don't let the pump level get out of control.
  3. You should feel out of breath

Low Intensity Stamina:

  1. Keep the intensity consistently low. 
  2. Keep the pump level very low.
  3. You should feel very comfortable and be able to carry out a normal conversation without feeling out of the breath.

If you have any questions regarding training stamina on circuit boards, Tom will be online between 8pm and 9pm tonight to answer your questions in the thread below.

Tom Randall is sponsored by: Climb On, Five Ten, Rab, Sterling Rope and Wild Country

Tom is also a Director of The Climbing Station

Forums ( Read More... | 68 comments, 14 Mar 2014 )
How many reps and sets are being done for the low intensity climbing? You say you double the number of moves and the subsequent rests but are you doing this indefinitely, or stopping at a certain number of moves? Did...
Dennis999 - 05 Mar 2014

your training videos are awesome i have watched the WideBoys dvd so many times. i built a climbing wall in my spare room hehe and i copied your off with crack you had in your basement its so much fun you and pete are...
hands solo - 05 Mar 2014

Hi Mark, I'm afraid this is beyond my area of expertise and I can't provide you with much of an answer - especially over the internet. I'd advise booking yourself a session with a coach in your local area. Sorry I...
TomPR - 05 Mar 2014

I tried stopping training originally and it made it much worse. I then went back to training and it didn't get any worse..... Finally I was shown a stretch for it (it's on my website under "golfer's elbow - a...
TomPR - 05 Mar 2014

Most likely for you, you should focus on the aerocap / stamina work like in this video. I'd also throw in some higher intensity stamina work as well, where you've got a bit of "an uncomfortable pump". An...
TomPR - 05 Mar 2014

Hi Tom Great that you're doing a QnA! So - what role does body positioning, particularly in the shoulder where there's possibilty for inpingement or release of blood flow, play in stamina? What balance should I make...
marconi - 05 Mar 2014

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