Big News on the Grit: Dynamics of Change and Captain Invincibleby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Mar/2014
This news story has been read 8,170 times
Nige's ascent of Dynamics of Change is the second ascent of this desperate gritstone arete, which is famed for having 'that move'. If you don't know what we are talking about, check out this video from Hotaches Productions featuring Pete Whittaker on the first ascent:
Nige has been on the road to recovery after a bouldering accident three years ago in which he broke his ankle.
Tom Randall has also been down at Burbage South (Quarries) and has repeated the sought after desperate line of Captain Invincible on the forboding north-west face of the Cioch.
Tom said: "The route was hard, E9 7a or 8b/+. I did it headpoint style, placing the gear on lead; clipping the pegs on lead and placing RPs on lead."
First climbed by Sean Myles back in 1991 and graded E8 6c, the route was repeated back then by an on form Robin Barker, but has not been repeated since, though it has seen a lot of recent attention from many strong climbers.
Tom commented on the route: "It's amazing as it needs all the climbing tricks - double prow, heel hooks, toe hooks, heel toes, finger jams, monos, everything really! It's about 10 routes packed into one."
And on hearing of Nige Kershaw's ascent of Dynamics... Tom said: "Nige.............. LEDGE!!!! Golden Feet is now Golden Balls!"
And Nige commented on Tom's ascent of Captain Invincible: "I think him doing Captain Invincible is the ascent of the year, its absolutely horrendous. Having been on it its definitely the hardest route in an overall sense I've tried."
The biggest UK mountain festival is over for another year. This weekend, Kendal was once again the hub for a gathering of... Read more
Mina Markovic has made the second female ascent, after Natalija Gros (2008), of Histerija, 8c+, at Misja Pec, Slovenia. The... Read more
Fred Moix has put together what he calls "an illustrated interview" with Alex Honnold. In between some onsight solos in... Read more
Niccolò Ceria has made the long awaited first repeat of Ben Moon's Voyager sit start, ~8B+, at Burbage North in the... Read more
We recently reported that "WideBoy" Tom Randall had climbed a new line on Ilam Rock... Read more