Cornwall Damage Update - More Routes Fall Down

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Mar/2014
This news story has been read 11,959 times

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+Ali high on Crack in the Sky, E1 5b, Carn Barra, Cornwall, 102 kb
Ali high on Crack in the Sky, E1 5b, Carn Barra, Cornwall
© Jersey Ian, Aug 2005
Martin Cathrow has been in touch with UKC to report more damage to classic routes on the Cornish granite.

It isn't all bad news though, and following the earlier Terrier's Tooth report, Martin told UKC:

"On the 2nd March myself and Nigel Braddon climbed three new lines on the freshly exposed rock now present at the start of Terrier's Tooth at Chair Ladder, Cornwall.  The new starts take fairly logical lines to regain the original route.  The cliff as a whole seems to be now stable (?) but there are still many holds that remain fractured and are therefore dubious.  The standard for these lines seems to be approximately VS/HVS but this was difficult to judge as the rock was very wet.  The climbing now has a 'quarried' feel to it and the rock is very compact with very few reliable gear placements."

However Martin also reported that the Carn Barra E1 Crack in the Sky is now more like 'Crack in the Sea'...

"The upper crack - the good bit - has now gone!  Also the 'track' above Grand Plage is very unstable - caution advised."

Carn Barra is a popular single pitch cliff and Crack in the Sky has had 111 ticks in the UKC logbooks. Who managed to get the final ascent of this mini classic?

The granite sea cliffs of Cornwall are amongst the best in the country, with hundreds of fantastic climbs, many of them in the amenable grades. The damage to Terrier's Tooth and the loss of Crack in the Sky are saddening blows, but the area of West Penwith still remains as a brilliant venue for climbers.

Have a look at the UKC Destination Guide to Bosigran, one of the area's finest cliffs. And check out the Climbers' Club hut The Counthouse, a fantastic resource for British climbers.

+Making the final move on Crack in the Sky, 211 kb
Making the final move on Crack in the Sky
© alastairbegley, Jul 2012


Forums ( Read More... | 14 comments, 09 Mar 2014 )
Your spot on Misha, I did it during the Meet and the start felt pretty stern - 6a, maybe 6b - difficult to say exactly which as I was on my 5th or 6th day on and the forearms were starting to find 4b moves challenging...
Rob Greenwood - UKC - 06 Mar 2014

Yes, plus there was damage from rock fall or perhaps a smaller boulder being smashed against the face, just where the moves to get off the deck were. There was possible gear available behind a dodgy looking flake thing...
Misha - 06 Mar 2014

There was a boulder next to the start last summer, but I think it was a different and smaller one than the original. It was possible to start from the deck at much the same grade though. (I thought about E4 6b) There...
drysori - 06 Mar 2014

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