WARNING: Dangerous Bolts on Welsh Slate

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Mar/2014
This news story has been read 4,133 times

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+Mark Reeves Pull Testing Bolts on the Slate, 70 kb
Mark Reeves Pull Testing Bolts on the Slate
UKC News, Mar 2014
© Mark Reeves
Llanberis-based climber Mark Reeves has reported on his blog that many well used bolts on the Slate of North Wales have become dangerously loose.

Following a report of a bolt failure, Mark has been out testing the bolts of popular routes with several pulling out at 5kn, a very low load.

However, Mark has just informed us:

"I tested some bolts in the wet yesterday and the results were even worse, two pulled at 1kn." 

The bolts that are most affected are those that get the most use, particularly lower-offs on popular routes.

It is thought that the soft slate has worn inside the bolt holes meaning the expansion bolts can move and become loose. Treat any bolt that moves with extreme caution. Resin bolts are not affected.

 


Forums ( Read More... | 8 comments, 27 Mar 2014 )
In the immediate short term there is no reason for any one to panic regarding these bolts as the ones in question are on the slabby routes and the climbers loading is in shear rather than the axial (direct pull out)...
Chris Parkin - 27 Mar 2014

I guess someone ripping out a bolt that they didn't know was suspect could also cause plenty of harm. For non-locals can you explain why warning people that they shouldn't trust bolts is an access issue? I'm not sure...
TobyA - 26 Mar 2014

Grough have also been broadcasting it with the headline: "Climbers are being warned that bolts in north Wales quarries could be dangerous and likely to fail" ...
highclimber - 26 Mar 2014

If UKC care for the sensitive access issues surrounding the Dinorwic Slate Quarries they will pull this news item ASAP before First Hydro read it (they do monitor our activities on UKC and the Slate Wicki). Earlier...
ian Ll-J - 26 Mar 2014

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