NEWSFLASH: Whittaker Climbs Baron Greenback Direct - E10?

by Duncan Campbell - UKC Mar/2014
This news story has been read 9,491 times

Pete Whittaker has made the first ascent of the direct start to Baron Greenback, E9 at Wimberry.

Pete climbed the original line back in May last year (UKC News Report), skirting in from the left to avoid the hard boulder problem start. This new start adds a hard, scary highball boulder problem to an already desperate route.

Tom Randall commented on the new line on Twitter:

"The BIG BIG line goes down at Wimberry. Pete Whittaker, you little beauty!! What a grit season so far..."

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+Pete Whittaker grappling with Baron Greenback, Wimberry, 120 kb
Pete Whittaker grappling with Baron Greenback, Wimberry
UKC News, May 2013
© Wild Country / Hotaches (Screenshot from film)

Pete is no stranger to hard gritstone first ascents with routes such as the original Baron Greenback, Sleepy Hollow (UKC News Report) and Dynamics of Change to name a few. 

Here is a video of Pete making the first ascent of Baron Greenback with the indirect start:

Ben Bransby repeated Pete's original E9 line last week (UKC News Report), finding it a little easier than the famous Parthian Shot at Burbage (UKC News Report).

We hope to bring you more information on Pete's ascent as soon as possible.

Pete Whittaker is sponsored by: Climb On, Five Ten, Patagonia, Sterling Rope and Wild Country

Forums ( Read More... | 16 comments, 03 Apr 2014 )
Thanks everyone for the fair and honest replies. Yeah I wasn't questioning the style or ethics of the route as it is; more the general idea of what happens if (when) these bolts rip. Sounds like it just becomes a solo...
Patrick Murphy - 02 Apr 2014

Wimberry will never be bolted. It's too much of a walk for most sport climbers to bother anyhow and the top is easily accessbile for toproping if one wants to be safe. The locals wouldn't stand for it and anyone spotted...
r0x0r.wolfo - 01 Apr 2014

In addition to Alun's good reply, I'd add that renewing the bolts would be similar to abseiling (rapping) down with a power drill and rebolting the Bachar-Yerian. Yes it's just replacing fixed gear but it takes some of...
a lakeland climber - 01 Apr 2014

You're right to be confused, and are not being dumb, it's a good question. The reason these bolts are tolerated is purely and simply because of history. The bolts in this climb are old aid bolts, placed decades ago,...
Alun - 01 Apr 2014

Very impressive. Good on ya mate. Time for the ethics question from a dumb American: what's the deal with the bolts? By this I don't mean why are the bolts there; more like, if there are bolts, albeit very dodgy, why...
Patrick Murphy - 01 Apr 2014

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